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	<title type="text">Jaya Saxena | Vox</title>
	<subtitle type="text">Our world has too much noise and too little context. Vox helps you understand what matters.</subtitle>

	<updated>2019-03-29T16:26:42+00:00</updated>

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				<name>Jaya Saxena</name>
			</author>
			
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[The cost of taking the SAT and ACT, explained]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.vox.com/the-goods/2019/3/28/18282453/sat-act-college-admission-testing-cost-price" />
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			<updated>2019-03-29T12:26:42-04:00</updated>
			<published>2019-03-28T07:00:00-04:00</published>
			<category scheme="https://www.vox.com" term="Money" />
							<summary type="html"><![CDATA[It costs a lot of money to get into college. There&#8217;s the cost of high school extracurriculars and test prep, all the things that are supposed to give a student a better shot at getting into the &#8220;best&#8221; school. There&#8217;s trips to visit potential schools to prove that your student is deeply interested in attending. [&#8230;]]]></summary>
			
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<img alt="" data-caption="Standardized tests are prohibitively expensive for some students. | Sarah Lawrence for Vox" data-portal-copyright="Sarah Lawrence for Vox" data-has-syndication-rights="1" src="https://platform.vox.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/chorus/uploads/chorus_asset/file/15990153/Money_Scantron2.png?quality=90&#038;strip=all&#038;crop=0,0,100,100" />
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	Standardized tests are prohibitively expensive for some students. | Sarah Lawrence for Vox	</figcaption>
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<p>It costs a lot of money to get into college. There&rsquo;s the cost of high school extracurriculars and test prep, all the things that are supposed to give a student a better shot at getting into the &ldquo;best&rdquo; school. There&rsquo;s trips to visit potential schools to prove that your student is deeply interested in attending. There&rsquo;s bribery for &ldquo;side door&rdquo; acceptance, if you&rsquo;re into that sort of thing. But even if you don&rsquo;t spend thousands on upping your potential to get into college, there&rsquo;s one cost that is basically unavoidable: the cost of taking the SAT or ACT.</p>

<p>The SAT (formerly standing for the Scholastic Aptitude Test, now just SAT) and ACT (originally American College Testing) are standardized tests that are functionally mandatory for admission at many colleges across the country, from elite universities to community college. Currently, <a href="https://blog.collegeboard.org/how-much-does-sat-and-sat-subject-test-cost">it costs</a> $47.50 to take the SAT ($64.50 with the Essay portion), and $22 for each of the SAT subject tests, not including the $26 registration fee. The ACT costs $50.50 ($67 with the Writing portion), and for each test there are extra costs for late registration. Advanced Placement (AP) tests cost $94. Fee waivers are available, but considering most college counselors suggest students take these tests multiple times, odds are many students and their families are paying hundreds of dollars just to be considered, turning college testing into a billion dollar industry.</p>
<figure class="wp-block-pullquote alignleft"><blockquote><p>The college testing industry is run by two nonprofits: the College Board, which develops the SAT, PSAT, and AP curriculum, and ACT Inc.</p></blockquote></figure>
<p>Recently, these tests made the news again in the <a href="https://www.vox.com/2019/3/14/18265576/college-cheating-scandal-fbi-lori-loughlin-felicity-huffman">college admissions scandal</a> centered around &ldquo;counselor&rdquo; William &ldquo;Rick&rdquo; Singer. Part of this particular scam involved bribed proctors either allowing professionals to take these tests in place of students, or editing the test results before sending them in. And thus, a decades-old conversation about bias and corruption in college testing &mdash; and whether the SAT and ACT should exist at all &mdash; was given a shot of adrenaline.</p>

<p>The college testing industry is run by two nonprofits: the College Board, which develops the SAT, PSAT, and AP curriculum, and ACT Inc., which administers the test of the same name. And for decades, the two have been accused of abusing their nonprofit status by holding a monopoly on college testing and, thus, admission. However, in recent years, <a href="http://www.fairtest.org/university/optional">more colleges and universities</a> have been deeming these entrance tests optional or entirely unnecessary, often in order to promote a more diverse applicant pool &mdash; and to weed out unfair advantages. Even without a crime ring, &ldquo;Well-to-do people buy their kids all kinds of advantages,&rdquo; Bob Schaeffer, public education director of FairTest, told the <a href="https://www.sfchronicle.com/education/article/SAT-and-ACT-take-hit-in-bribery-scandal-but-many-13694339.php">San Francisco Chronicle</a>. &ldquo;These so-called objective numbers are very easily manipulated in a way that creates a tilted playing field.&rdquo;</p>

<p>Schools going test-optional, or eliminating them altogether, could mean a huge blow to the big business of testing. Or it could just drastically change the way the system is gamed.</p>
<h2 class="wp-block-heading">Why the SAT and ACT exist</h2>
<p>It&rsquo;s not difficult to understand how the SAT and ACT became part of America&rsquo;s college admissions process in the first place. At the turn of the 20th century, when college was effectively just for white men, many schools had their own exams. These had to be taken at the colleges themselves. This would shut out any student who didn&rsquo;t have the means to travel and result in wildly different tests that were probably inconvenient to prepare for. It also meant that the nearly uniformly white, rich, and male students at elite prep schools basically had a lock on the top universities (yes, that&rsquo;s still a problem, but we&rsquo;ll get to it later).</p>

<p>The College Board, founded in 1899, was a group of a dozen colleges (all on the east coast) and a few prep schools that wanted to create one test everyone could use, regardless of background. The group also aimed to standardize what sorts of things high schools would teach to get their students ready for university. The SAT debuted in 1926 out of their efforts. However, the SAT started as an aptitude test, and was criticized for only showing whether students were good at taking the SAT. Enter the ACT, which was developed in 1959 at the University of Iowa, and designed to see if a student had actually learned what they were supposed to learn in 12 years of school. The SAT began to follow suit, and over the decades both tests have gone through overhauls with the goal of being an objective representation of a student&rsquo;s readiness for college.</p>
<img src="https://platform.vox.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/chorus/uploads/chorus_asset/file/15987799/GettyImages_564041027.jpg?quality=90&#038;strip=all&#038;crop=0,0,100,100" alt="Students sitting at desks taking tests." title="Students sitting at desks taking tests." data-has-syndication-rights="1" data-caption="Students taking a standardized test, many of which are de facto requirements for most college admissions. | Carlos Chavez/Los Angeles Times via Getty Images" data-portal-copyright="Carlos Chavez/Los Angeles Times via Getty Images" />
<p>It&rsquo;s an appealing thought, especially given how uneven K-12 education is in America. We know public school funding is <a href="https://www.npr.org/2016/04/18/474256366/why-americas-schools-have-a-money-problem">based on property tax value</a>, meaning schools in wealthier areas get better funding. We know the wealthier you are, the more likely you are to <a href="https://www.theatlantic.com/education/archive/2018/07/why-private-schools-are-becoming-more-elite/566144/">send your kid to a private school</a> (where <a href="https://www.the74million.org/study-grade-inflation-more-prevalent-at-wealthy-schools-where-parents-have-greater-ability-to-game-the-system/">grade inflation</a> is more prevalent), or to have access to treatments for learning disabilities, or to be able to afford outside test prep and tutoring, or all the other things that give you a leg up when applying to college. But the SAT/ACT, ideally, could be a great equalizer. &ldquo;It&rsquo;s not dependent on how lenient or how harsh the grading standards are in a given high school,&rdquo; says Professor Daniel Koretz, author of <em>The Testing Charade</em>. &ldquo;You don&rsquo;t have the risk that high school teachers are giving inferior grades to certain groups based on bias.&rdquo; It&rsquo;s the one thing all admissions officers have that, in theory, means the same thing.</p>

<p>Of course, in practice, that&rsquo;s not how it works. &ldquo;The reality that there has been a long-standing and clear racial, gender, and economic bias in both tests is the larger problem,&rdquo; says one private school teacher in Manhattan (who asked that he not be identified). Some argue that the test itself is inherently biased in terms of how it&rsquo;s written. Others, like Koretz, say that because the way our public education system is set up, it&rsquo;s just more likely that poorer and underprivileged kids won&rsquo;t have the resources to do well. Either way, we wind up with white and Asian students routinely outperforming black and Latinx students on <a href="https://www.brookings.edu/research/race-gaps-in-sat-scores-highlight-inequality-and-hinder-upward-mobility/">both</a> <a href="https://www.insidehighered.com/news/2017/09/07/act-scores-are-gaps-remain-preparation-and-raceethnicity">tests</a>.</p>
<h2 class="wp-block-heading">Who’s in charge of the SAT and ACT?</h2>
<p>The SAT is administered by Educational Testing Service (ETS) on behalf of College Board, while the ACT is administered by ACT Inc. All three companies are nonprofits, though as Koretz explains, that doesn&rsquo;t mean they&rsquo;re altruistic, and many have accused these companies of only caring about their bottom line. According to their <a href="https://projects.propublica.org/nonprofits/organizations/210634479/201822279349301257/IRS990">last tax return</a>, ETS had a total revenue of $1.4 billion, with their president making $1.1 million. ACT Inc. <a href="https://projects.propublica.org/nonprofits/organizations/420841485/201811839349300921/IRS990">had a total revenue</a> of just over $353 million, with their CEO/director making $800k. College Board is also in charge of AP curriculum, another large consideration for any college applicant. Both College Board and ACT Inc. also offer test prep materials, from <a href="https://www.kaptest.com/act/partner/act-test-prep">$99 live-streaming study sessions</a> to <a href="https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/the-official-sat-study-guide-2018-edition-the-college-board/1124793812#/">official study guides</a>. College Board has recently teamed with Khan Academy to provide a lot of free online lessons, but it still stands that this is a business. The SAT and ACT have a stake in remaining a necessary part of any college application.</p>

<p>ETS and ACT Inc. can also impact how colleges see their applicants. &ldquo;I get literally at least a call a day from some working-class student who busted their butt to increase their SAT or ACT scores, and then have ETS or ACT suspend their scores and accuse them of cheating,&rdquo; says Andre Green, the executive director of FairTest. &ldquo;Meanwhile, we find out that rich people are literally buying off proctors and ETS.&rdquo; ETS claims it&rsquo;s not a monopoly, <a href="https://www.ets.org/about/faq/">saying</a> &ldquo;there are competitors for most of the testing programs and related products and services we develop,&rdquo; but the fact is that students can&rsquo;t get into most schools without taking these tests, and the entire landscape for that test-taking is unfair.</p>
<figure class="wp-block-pullquote alignleft"><blockquote><p>ETS had a total revenue of $1.4 billion, with their president making $1.1 million</p></blockquote></figure>
<p>Some argue that, because of this unfairness, college degrees in general are a scam and should not be held in such high regard. But that point of view is easier to hold the more advantages you have. Studies largely show that the more privileged you are, the better off you&rsquo;re going to be with or without a college degree. According to <a href="https://research.upjohn.org/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?referer=&amp;httpsredir=1&amp;article=1302&amp;context=up_workingpapers">one study</a>, if you&rsquo;re black or a woman, regardless of your financial background, getting a college degree ups your chances to earn more, whereas &ldquo;the differential college earnings premium by family-income background is more evident among men and whites.&rdquo; Shifting the goalposts from &ldquo;everyone should have a college degree&rdquo; to &ldquo;college is a scam&rdquo; just keeps the same people in power and privilege. When experts, administrators, and parents argue over testing and admissions, it&rsquo;s because the stakes are still high.</p>

<p>This is why it&rsquo;s not necessarily a problem that ETS and ACT Inc. have a hold on the tests, but more that the tests have a hold on admissions. &ldquo;Let&rsquo;s say there&rsquo;s a government-run test. It&rsquo;s not the manager of the test, it&rsquo;s the stakes. &#8230; When a test is this important, people are going to game the system,&rdquo; says Green. Students are always looking for ways to prove their competence, so as long as there&rsquo;s a test that claims to do that, regardless of who runs it, students will take it.</p>
<h2 class="wp-block-heading">Can these tests be made more equal?</h2>
<p>In an effort to combat all the above-board ways students can gain unfair advantages in the SAT and ACT, <a href="http://www.fairtest.org/university/optional">more than 1,000 colleges</a> are making the tests either optional or entirely not required. Ironically, some of those schools, like Bryn Mawr College and Union College, are the ones that developed the SAT with College Board nearly 100 years ago. It&rsquo;s a trend many educators are in favor of. &ldquo;While I do not believe there is any magic fix, I feel that moving to a more portfolio-style admissions process would help the process become more equitable,&rdquo; says the private school teacher in Manhattan. &ldquo;Certainly there needs to be academic metrics used to evaluate students; however, we are all more than our scores on tests.&rdquo;</p>

<p>There are also various efforts to help students navigate the costs of these tests, from teachers and parents starting GoFundMes for test prep, to free test prep offerings from Khan Academy. But the fee waivers offered by College Board, ACT Inc., and the National Association for College Admission Counseling are mostly available to students on government assistance (with the latter allowing for school counselors to <a href="https://www.nacacfairs.org/globalassets/college-fair--homepage/ncf-documents/learn/student-application-fee-waiver-2018.pdf">argue for students who aren&rsquo;t</a>). But plenty of students have a hard time paying, regardless. On Reddit, many students have complained about the costs; one was shocked at how much it cost <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/ApplyingToCollege/comments/9i30mi/sat_subject_tests_are_too_expensive/">just to register</a> for the SAT subject tests, while another mentioned the <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/Sat/comments/7l3gou/why_is_the_sat_so_damn_expensive_for/">cost of taking it internationally</a> (which is <a href="https://collegereadiness.collegeboard.org/sat/register/international/fees">almost as much</a> as the test itself) is as much as some teachers in their country make in a month.</p>
<img src="https://platform.vox.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/chorus/uploads/chorus_asset/file/15987792/GettyImages_1130231506.jpg?quality=90&#038;strip=all&#038;crop=0,0,100,100" alt="" title="" data-has-syndication-rights="1" data-caption="The scandal surrounding college counselor William “Rick” Singer has brought the fairness of admissions back into the national conversation. | Jessica Rinaldi/The Boston Globe via Getty Images" data-portal-copyright="Jessica Rinaldi/The Boston Globe via Getty Images" />
<p>Green argues &ldquo;the best way to measure someone&rsquo;s work &#8230; is to look at their prior work. &#8230; So rather than trying to establish some crazy predictive which we know is a little biased, we should look at a students prior performance.&rdquo; However, Koretz says transcripts can be just as biased as test scores, and that most universities just don&rsquo;t have the staff to keep track of which schools have less funding, inflated grades, more AP offerings, and all the other things that influence what a student&rsquo;s B+ average or 3.4 GPA actually means.</p>

<p>There probably could stand to be more attention paid to actual high school transcripts and histories. That way, admissions officers may have seen that the students involved in the Singer scandal were not actually star athletes. But the troubling fact behind college admissions, ETS, and College Board or not, is that no one really knows how to predict how high school students will do in college. Though <a href="https://collegereadiness.collegeboard.org/pdf/redesigned-sat-pilot-predictive-validity-study-first-look.pdf">one study</a>, sponsored by College Board, says SAT scores are an important predictor of college performance, other studies say SAT scores <a href="https://www.insidehighered.com/news/2016/01/26/new-research-suggests-sat-under-or-overpredicts-first-year-grades-hundreds-thousands">aren&rsquo;t a good predictor</a> of freshman GPAs. And freshman GPAs aren&rsquo;t necessarily a good predictor of college performance or adult success or happiness or fulfillment or likelihood that a graduate will give back to the school. And no matter what, admissions officers just can&rsquo;t get to know every single applicant.</p>

<p>Right now, college admissions depend a lot on two somewhat pricey tests controlled by two nonprofits. But doing away with their stronghold on the tests won&rsquo;t do away with biased teachers, uneven public school funding, privilege, or class. But a hard truth for many students and parents to absorb is that there are no guarantees.</p>

<p>Still, that doesn&rsquo;t mean there&rsquo;s no use in trying to make things as equitable as possible. If colleges are going to require the SAT/ACT, perhaps they&rsquo;d like to think of paying for them, or making them free, or hell, making college free. $64.50 is a little easier to bear when you&rsquo;re not going to be in debt for the rest of your life.</p>

<p><em>Want more stories from The Goods by Vox? </em><a href="http://vox.com/goods-newsletter"><em>Sign up for our newsletter here.</em></a><em>&nbsp;</em></p>
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			<entry>
			
			<author>
				<name>Jaya Saxena</name>
			</author>
			
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[The knitting community is reckoning with racism]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.vox.com/the-goods/2019/2/25/18234950/knitting-racism-instagram-stories" />
			<id>https://www.vox.com/the-goods/2019/2/25/18234950/knitting-racism-instagram-stories</id>
			<updated>2019-02-24T18:43:10-05:00</updated>
			<published>2019-02-25T08:00:00-05:00</published>
			<category scheme="https://www.vox.com" term="Explainers" /><category scheme="https://www.vox.com" term="Money" /><category scheme="https://www.vox.com" term="Social Media" /><category scheme="https://www.vox.com" term="Technology" />
							<summary type="html"><![CDATA[Karen Templer&#8217;s Fringe Association Co. is kind of like Goop for knitting. There are tips and how-tos for navigating knitting&#8217;s trickier maneuvers. There are knit-alongs for chunky cowls and cute fingerless gloves. There&#8217;s an online store that sells the Fringe bag, which has come to be known in some circles as the Birkin of knitting [&#8230;]]]></summary>
			
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<p>Karen Templer&rsquo;s <a href="https://fringeassociation.com/">Fringe Association Co.</a> is kind of like Goop for knitting. There are tips and how-tos for navigating knitting&rsquo;s trickier maneuvers. There are knit-alongs for chunky cowls and cute fingerless gloves. There&rsquo;s an online store that sells the Fringe bag, which has come to be known in some circles as the <a href="https://www.vox.com/policy-and-politics/2018/8/22/17768838/michael-cohen-trial-birkin-bag">Birkin</a> of knitting bags. And there&rsquo;s the blog where Templer puts her personal thoughts.</p>

<p>On January 7, she <a href="https://fringeassociation.com/2019/01/07/2019-my-year-of-color/">blogged excitedly</a> about her upcoming trip to India. She wrote that 2019 would be her &ldquo;year of color.&rdquo; She said that as a child, India had fascinated her, and that when an Indian friend&rsquo;s parents offered to take her with them on a trip, it was &ldquo;like being offered a seat on a flight to Mars.&rdquo; She spoke of her trip as if it were the biggest hurdle anyone could jump: &ldquo;If I can go to India, I can do anything &mdash; I&rsquo;m pretty sure.&rdquo; Templer, it should be noted, is white.</p>

<p>As someone who is mixed-race Indian, to me, her post (though seemingly well-meaning) was like bingo for every conversation a white person has ever had with me about their &ldquo;fascination&rdquo; with my dad&rsquo;s home country; it was just so <em>colorful</em> and <em>complex</em> and <em>inspiring</em>. It&rsquo;s not that they were wrong, per se, just that the tone felt like they thought India only existed to be all those things for them.</p>

<p>The initial comments on Templer&rsquo;s blog post were supportive, but quickly, knitters and fans began to criticize her tone. &ldquo;Karen, I&rsquo;d ask you to re-read what you wrote and think about how your words feed into a colonial/imperialist mindset toward India and other non-Western countries,&rdquo; wrote commenter Alex. &ldquo;Multiple times you compare the idea of going to India to the idea of going to another planet &mdash; how do you think a person from India would feel to hear that?&rdquo;</p>

<p>Templer has <a href="https://fringeassociation.com/2019/01/12/words-matter/">since apologized</a> for her post, writing, &ldquo;It took women of color pointing this out for me to see it &#8230; which is not their responsibility, and I am thankful to them for taking the time,&rdquo; and that she&rsquo;d be continuing to raise visibility of people of color (and specifically black/indigenous POC) knitters and their work. (Templer declined to comment for this piece.) But her post triggered a wave of conversations about racism and prejudice in the fiber arts world, which thus far shows no signs of slowing down.</p>
<h2 class="wp-block-heading">How the conversation started</h2>
<p>Odds are if you&rsquo;re in your 20s or 30s, you have at least one friend who&rsquo;s gotten really into knitting in the past few years. The ancient craft never went away, but relatively recently, aided by its high Instagrammability, a heightened appreciation of DIY, and everyone&rsquo;s desperate need to keep their hands busy in an anxiety-inducing world, it became more within the purview of urbane people who know how to flex online.</p>

<p>Social media and the internet have allowed more people than ever to share their love of fiber arts, whether it&rsquo;s through the ease of exchanging patterns and tips, or just connecting with other people who share the same interests. It&rsquo;s not just that it makes knitting feel cool; it&rsquo;s that knitters can find community within a hobby or livelihood that&rsquo;s often done in solitude.</p>

<p>Social media is also a source of income for many knitters and fiber artists, who use Instagram to promote their Etsy shops, to connect with customers who want commissions, or to interact with brands and blogs. It&rsquo;s as much socializing as it is networking, whether that means tagging the yarn dyers and pattern makers who made your hat possible, or asking your followers what kinds of things they&rsquo;d like to see available in your shop.</p>
<div class="instagram-embed"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BqHDkt_FPCI/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">View Link</a></div>
<p>Social media also makes pointing out racism easier than ever. For weeks, POC knitters have used Instagram, and specifically Instagram stories, to share their observations, tag other knitters, and conduct polls about others&rsquo; experiences with racism in the community. Hundreds of people of color have shared stories of being ignored in knitting stores, having white knitters assume they were poor or complete amateurs, or flat-out saying they didn&rsquo;t think black or Asian people knit.</p>

<p>Templer&rsquo;s blog post was far from the first time anyone raised the issue of whitewashing in knitting. &ldquo;I think exactly two years ago, I tried to speak about this,&rdquo; said Korina Yoo, a 23-year-old Filipina immigrant of mixed heritage living in Portland, Oregon, who shares her knitting via the account <a href="https://www.instagram.com/thecolormustard/">@thecolormustard</a>. Grace Anna Farrow (<a href="https://www.instagram.com/astitchtowear/?hl=en">@astitchtowear</a>), a 38-year-old knitter in New Mexico, agreed that she&rsquo;d seen conversations happen but they didn&rsquo;t seem to stick. &ldquo;I feel like the conversations were happening and they just weren&rsquo;t getting attention, or they were in pockets that were so separated that you could conceivably ignore them all,&rdquo; she said.</p>

<p>The knitters I spoke to were frustrated that Templer&rsquo;s blog post seemed to be the thing that made that conversation blow up. &ldquo;To say that it started with Karen Templer is to give her more credit than she deserves,&rdquo; said Farrow, &ldquo;but to say that white women noticed it when it happened to Karen Templer is more accurate. &hellip; That&rsquo;s shitty, but if that&rsquo;s what it takes to get the conversation started, I have trouble spending a lot of time feeling bad about it.&rdquo;</p>

<p>Yoo and Farrow have been two of the loudest voices in the conversation, as well as Sukrita Mahon (<a href="https://www.instagram.com/su.krita">@su.krita</a>) and Ocean Rose (<a href="https://www.instagram.com/ocean_bythesea/">@ocean_bythesea</a>), among others. &ldquo;We&rsquo;ve had overwhelming support from all kinds of people,&rdquo; said Mahon. &ldquo;I really feel like we have a supportive audience that wants the community to do better and be better. It&rsquo;s so encouraging. I&rsquo;m daring to think that maybe we do belong.&rdquo;</p>
<div class="instagram-embed"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BuDtL2OlTeQ/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">View Link</a></div>
<p>The conversation has certainly reached those outside the POC knitting community. &ldquo;I saw [Templer&rsquo;s] post mentioned in an Instagram story by one of the black knitters I follow, and I think they linked to @su.krita&rsquo;s stories,&rdquo; said Mark Popham, a 32-year-old white knitter in Brooklyn. &ldquo;Then I started following a handful of BIPOC posting about it, and I&rsquo;ve been following it since.&rdquo;</p>

<p>And while he&rsquo;d assumed that the knitting community was probably as racist as the world at large (read: very), he learned more about how he could combat that in this community. &ldquo;I definitely had not done anything about what that would look like in this context &mdash; how it feels to be the only person of color in a knitting group, or see an Instagram feed with all white models, or have people say explicitly racist things to you at a knitting festival,&rdquo; he said. &ldquo;It shouldn&rsquo;t take a person of color to point out that it&rsquo;s weird to have an image of a diverse community be lily-white.&rdquo;</p>
<h2 class="wp-block-heading">The backlash to the conversation</h2>
<p>The most common image of knitting is still probably an old white lady sitting in a rocking chair making a blanket (a stereotype that tends to grind modern knitters&rsquo; gears, with reason). But even though the stereotypical image has gotten younger over the years, the community is still perceived as very white. Part of that is a problem of access: Mahon points to the expense, especially if you&rsquo;re buying high-quality or indie-made yarns (hand-dyed or luxurious yarn can be around $30 a skein, and depending on yardage, you&rsquo;d need at least three to four skeins to make a sweater). &ldquo;And it just keeps getting more and more expensive and elitist, until only other white women can keep up,&rdquo; she said.</p>

<p>But another part is pure &ldquo;marketable aesthetics,&rdquo; says Yoo. &ldquo;At some point, those<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Bt3-9IfBd-x/"> super-blue filters came through</a>, and then the <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BtT00HKFN_t/">minimalism came through</a>, and then the <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BrsW5KMH0_v/">not showing who you are</a>, <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Bq0mB88gBhu/">the cup of coffee, ball of yarn</a> &hellip; spaces could become whitewashed without you really noticing.&rdquo; The popular look was to focus on the knitting, not the person doing the knitting, which made it easier to forget what that person looked like. And sometimes, when followers were reminded, they showed their prejudice.</p>
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<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/BrXbxS7l3WS/?utm_source=ig_embed&#038;utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="14"><div> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BrXbxS7l3WS/?utm_source=ig_embed&#038;utm_campaign=loading" target="_blank"> <div> <div></div> <div> <div></div> <div></div></div></div><div></div> <div></div><div> <div>View this post on Instagram</div></div><div></div> <div><div> <div></div> <div></div> <div></div></div><div> <div></div> <div></div></div><div> <div></div> <div></div> <div></div></div></div> <div> <div></div> <div></div></div></a><p><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BrXbxS7l3WS/?utm_source=ig_embed&#038;utm_campaign=loading" target="_blank">A post shared by ☼  𝓞𝓬𝓮𝓪𝓷  ☼ (@ocean_bythesea)</a></p></div></blockquote>
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<p>Rose said she noticed the whitewashing of the community when she&rsquo;d post a photo of herself, or part of herself, after long stretches of only showing yarn or other images. &ldquo;I just noticed the space was easier to navigate when I didn&rsquo;t show who I was, because then you wouldn&rsquo;t assume that I was a black person,&rdquo; she said. &ldquo;When I didn&rsquo;t show myself, people would assume that the picture was from a white person. That&rsquo;s when I knew it was really whitewashed.&rdquo;</p>

<p>Though the conversation that Mahon, Rose, Yoo, and Farrow (among many others) have pushed forward has helped a lot of people see racism and whitewashing for what it is, there has also been pushback. The conversation has gotten some attention from the press, first in <a href="https://www.newyorker.com/culture/culture-desk/all-knit-up-in-sweater-instagram">the New Yorker</a> and later in <a href="https://quillette.com/2019/02/17/a-witch-hunt-on-instagram/">Quillette</a>, which called it a &ldquo;witch-hunt&rdquo; and involved a lot of hand-wringing over people being accused of being racist.</p>

<p>The backlash is &ldquo;usually from white people who don&rsquo;t understand why we&rsquo;re &lsquo;making it about race,&rsquo;&rdquo; says Mahon. &ldquo;It&rsquo;s generally people who either don&rsquo;t think this is a problem or feel uncomfortable engaging with us. There are also POC who find this discussion uncomfortable, which I find harder to deal with. They just don&rsquo;t want to rock the boat too much &mdash; but we already know where that gets us (nowhere).&rdquo;</p>

<p>Hand-dyer and knitter Maria Tusken, who is white, <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dv1TxdkwdIY&amp;t=263s">posted a video on YouTube</a> saying she spoke for the &ldquo;silent majority&rdquo; of knitters who didn&rsquo;t think racism was a problem, that people were being &ldquo;hostile &#8230; all in the name of this social justice issue.&rdquo; She added that those who did were following a &ldquo;one-sided belief&rdquo; that was leading them to bully people who didn&rsquo;t think racism was a problem. (Tusken did not respond to request for comment for this piece.)</p>

<p>Her video was <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/comments/aldqm7/anyone_care_to_explain_the_tusken_knits_business/">held up as an example of the fragility of many white knitters</a> &mdash; even if they&rsquo;re not leaving explicitly racist comments, many are refusing to engage with the conversation, and appear to agree with Tusken that the real &ldquo;bullies&rdquo; are those who point out white privilege to begin with.</p>
<div class="instagram-embed"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BQpBlxnAxYv/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">View Link</a></div><h2 class="wp-block-heading">So what happens now?</h2>
<p>Though YouTube and blog posts have been part of the conversation, a vast majority of it has happened over the more ephemeral medium of Instagram stories. Mahon, Yoo, and others have made highlight collections of the conversation, but the format makes some things difficult.</p>

<p>&ldquo;Sometimes you really feel the limits of the platform &mdash; not being able to link to websites, having to break statements into the comments,&rdquo; said Popham, &ldquo;but on the other hand, I don&rsquo;t think this conversation <em>could</em> have happened elsewhere. There just isn&rsquo;t another place where you could have this community, somewhat uncensored and able to react to one another.&rdquo;</p>

<p>Those who facilitated the conversations agreed that the temporality of Instagram stories is what let them feel free to voice their concerns. &ldquo;I think Instagram stories is a little less risky,&rdquo; said Rose. Your main feed is &ldquo;sort of like your landing page; people will go onto your feed and they see everything there. But with stories, you can kind of go wild.&rdquo;</p>

<p>And according to Farrow, Instagram stories replicates the way these conversations have always worked. &ldquo;The fact that it connected people makes it valid,&rdquo; she said. &ldquo;The fact that it&rsquo;s temporary doesn&rsquo;t make it less valid. Most conversations are temporary and exist in the moment and then expire, but that&rsquo;s how we live.&rdquo;</p>

<p>Stories have also allowed knitters of color to retain control over the conversation. Yoo says a number of white knitters have asked that these conversations take place in person. &ldquo;I think it&rsquo;s just like, &lsquo;I prefer where you can see the amount of privilege that I can exhibit and extort,&rsquo;&rdquo; she said. But online, everyone is closer to being on equal footing; you can&rsquo;t pressure someone into following the social norms of &ldquo;polite conversation.&rdquo;</p>
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<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/Bti1LlqlpjJ/?utm_source=ig_embed&#038;utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="14"><div> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Bti1LlqlpjJ/?utm_source=ig_embed&#038;utm_campaign=loading" target="_blank"> <div> <div></div> <div> <div></div> <div></div></div></div><div></div> <div></div><div> <div>View this post on Instagram</div></div><div></div> <div><div> <div></div> <div></div> <div></div></div><div> <div></div> <div></div></div><div> <div></div> <div></div> <div></div></div></div> <div> <div></div> <div></div></div></a><p><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Bti1LlqlpjJ/?utm_source=ig_embed&#038;utm_campaign=loading" target="_blank">A post shared by ☼  𝓞𝓬𝓮𝓪𝓷  ☼ (@ocean_bythesea)</a></p></div></blockquote>
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<p>Talking about it is always the first step, but as to how this conversation changes things going forward, it&rsquo;s still unclear. Many people have pledged, whether on Instagram or in Reddit comments, to buy more knitwear and supplies from POC sellers, and say they&rsquo;ve taken to heart the stories that have been shared. &ldquo;Change is happening behind the scenes, and I find that encouraging, but also, when it&rsquo;s not visible, how do you know?&rdquo; asks Mahon.</p>

<p>One way these knitters are moving forward is with <a href="https://www.unfinishedobject.com/">Unfinished Object</a>, a blog from Mahon, Rose, Yoo, and Farrow that aims to explore &ldquo;how diversity becomes inclusion, how representation morphs into change, and how we can serve our joy while being meaningfully present in our truths &mdash; in the fibre world and beyond.&rdquo; So far, Mahon has written about feeling that her local knitting community in Sydney hasn&rsquo;t taken enough of a stand against racism, and the group has an <a href="https://www.unfinishedobject.com/blog/2019/2/19/frequently-asked-questions-answered">FAQ</a> on how to be a better ally.</p>

<p class="has-end-mark">Perhaps the biggest change is how knitters of color will use a tool like Instagram from now on. &ldquo;I cannot just mindlessly scroll anymore,&rdquo; said Yoo. She and others are more aware than ever of whom they follow and support in the community. But Yoo also says the most promising aspect is that they&rsquo;re not the center of the conversation anymore. &ldquo;We&rsquo;ve been exhausted, but seeing it sparked up again, seeing new voices, new coalitions sort of forming, that was like, &lsquo;Oh, this is great.&rsquo;&rdquo;</p>
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