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	<title type="text">Kelsey Miller | Vox</title>
	<subtitle type="text">Our world has too much noise and too little context. Vox helps you understand what matters.</subtitle>

	<updated>2019-09-20T20:20:34+00:00</updated>

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				<name>Kelsey Miller</name>
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			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Friends is 25 years old. It’s still extremely popular — and polarizing.]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.vox.com/culture/2019/9/20/20875107/friends-25th-anniversary-polarizing-legacy-homophobia" />
			<id>https://www.vox.com/culture/2019/9/20/20875107/friends-25th-anniversary-polarizing-legacy-homophobia</id>
			<updated>2019-09-20T16:20:34-04:00</updated>
			<published>2019-09-20T11:20:00-04:00</published>
			<category scheme="https://www.vox.com" term="Culture" /><category scheme="https://www.vox.com" term="Explainers" /><category scheme="https://www.vox.com" term="Features" /><category scheme="https://www.vox.com" term="TV" />
							<summary type="html"><![CDATA[This month marks the 25th anniversary of the premiere of Friends. You may have heard about this, oh, everywhere. Everyone loves a pop-culture anniversary, but this particular milestone is being celebrated with everything from a pop-up &#8220;experience&#8221; in New York City to Pottery Barn and Ralph Lauren collections to light shows on the Empire State [&#8230;]]]></summary>
			
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<p>This month marks the 25th anniversary of the premiere of <em>Friends</em>. You may have heard about this, oh, everywhere. Everyone loves a pop-culture anniversary, but this particular milestone is being celebrated with everything from a <a href="https://www.friends25popup.com/">pop-up &ldquo;experience&rdquo;</a> in New York City to <a href="https://www.vox.com/the-goods/2019/7/12/20692316/pottery-barn-friends-collab-collection">Pottery Barn</a> and <a href="https://www.ralphlauren.com/friends">Ralph Lauren</a> collections to light shows on the <a href="https://www.warnerbros.com/news/press-releases/friends-25-meghan-trainor">Empire State Building</a> &mdash; and the obligatory onslaught of <a href="https://people.com/tv/friends-creators-episode-they-regret/"><em>Friends</em></a><em> </em><a href="https://www.today.com/video/famous-friends-guest-stars-reflects-on-sitcom-25-years-later-69363781973">retrospectives</a> and <a href="https://www.usatoday.com/story/entertainment/tv/2019/09/16/friends-25th-anniversary-why-we-cant-let-them-go/2154983001/">think pieces</a> from every extant media outlet and publisher. Twenty-five years after its debut, there&rsquo;s still plenty to say about <em>Friends </em>&mdash; and to critique, or downright trash.</p>

<p>Full disclosure: I actually wrote one of those many retrospectives, a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Ill-Be-There-You-Friends/dp/1335928286">whole book</a> on the history and legacy of <em>Friends</em>. One thing that became abundantly clear in my research is that most people &mdash; even those who didn&rsquo;t really watch it &mdash; seem to have an opinion on the show. And unlike other popular television series, this one seems to have a particularly divisive effect: People either fall into the camp of &ldquo;<em>Friends </em>is <a href="https://www.buzzfeednews.com/article/scaachikoul/friends-anniversary-bad">hateful garbage</a> and should be canceled,&rdquo; or &ldquo;<em>Friends </em>is perfect and untouchable and if you say anything bad about it, then <em>you</em> should be canceled.&rdquo; My favorite headline from the latter camp is <a href="https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2018/01/16/friends-falls-victim-new-cultural-revolution-nothing-safe/">this one</a> from the Telegraph: &ldquo;If <em>Friends</em> falls victim to the new cultural revolution, nothing is safe.&rdquo;</p>

<p>Forget the Rachel haircut; I think <em>Friends</em>&rsquo; ability to polarize is the show&rsquo;s true legacy. It<em> </em>has become a way for us to look at (and argue about) enormous societal issues &mdash; racism, misogyny, homophobia &mdash; through the lens of a sitcom.</p>

<p>Diehards like to wave away its flaws in one fell swoop simply by calling it a product of its time. And it is! <em>Friends</em> has come to represent everything that was great and shitty about the &rsquo;90s: a time before social media, reality TV, and the reality TV president. A time before 9/11. Also a time before marriage equality and wider acceptance of transgender rights. A time when an all-white New York City was not just plausible on television but expected.</p>

<p>The capital-I issues with <em>Friends </em>can&rsquo;t be summed up in a hot take, but that doesn&rsquo;t mean they&rsquo;re not worth examining. So take a deep breath and let&rsquo;s break down the five most glaring issues with one of television&rsquo;s most problematic faves.</p>
<img src="https://platform.vox.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/chorus/uploads/chorus_asset/file/19216509/138414665.jpg.jpg?quality=90&#038;strip=all&#038;crop=0,0,100,100" alt="The cast of Friends in a promotional photo where they recreate a famous black-and-white photo of construction workers eating lunch while seated on a&nbsp;girder&nbsp;high above Manhattan." title="The cast of Friends in a promotional photo where they recreate a famous black-and-white photo of construction workers eating lunch while seated on a&nbsp;girder&nbsp;high above Manhattan." data-has-syndication-rights="1" data-caption="The cast of &lt;em&gt;Friends &lt;/em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://100photos.time.com/photos/lunch-atop-a-skyscraper&quot;&gt;recreates a famous (and equally promotional) photo&lt;/a&gt;, seemingly without a care in the world. | NBC/NBCU Photo Bank/Getty Images" data-portal-copyright="NBC/NBCU Photo Bank/Getty Images" /><h2 class="wp-block-heading">Is <em>Friends</em> homophobic?</h2>
<p>In short, yep. It&rsquo;s riddled with lazy gay jokes, which was standard for sitcoms of its era. But the homophobia on <em>Friends </em>is also more complex than that. It is truly a Don&rsquo;t Ask Don&rsquo;t Tell-era show, full of small steps forward and anxious jumps back.&nbsp;</p>

<p>This tension is perfectly exemplified in season two&rsquo;s &ldquo;The One With the Lesbian Wedding,&rdquo; an episode that&rsquo;s equal parts envelope-pushing and full of gay panic. Ross&rsquo;s ex-wife, Carol, marries her longtime girlfriend, Susan. Ross has a hard time accepting this, which sucks but is relatable; He expresses these feelings by drawing on his bottomless supply of lesbian jokes, which just sucks.</p>

<p>On the envelope-pushing side, you&rsquo;ve got two women walking down the aisle and pledging vows to one another. Their not-yet-legal union is officiated by Candace Gingrich, the LGBTQ rights activist and sibling of Newt Gingrich (who when the episode aired in 1996 was one of the most visible anti-gay politicians in power). Carol and Susan even have queer icon Lea DeLaria as a wedding guest!&nbsp;</p>

<p>On the gay-panic side, everything else about the wedding is carefully curated to be as cautious and heteronormative as possible: The brides are walked down the aisle by men, wearing long, pastel gowns &mdash;&nbsp;a decision made by costume designer Debra McGuire, who <a href="https://www.racked.com/2017/6/7/15742358/friends-tv-show-weddings">later explained</a>: &ldquo;I really loved the idea of these women being women, of them looking beautiful and feminine, because of the stereotypes about gay women.&rdquo;</p>

<p>The implication was that women in pants aren&rsquo;t real women but an ugly stereotype that needs to be corrected. DeLaria herself <a href="https://books.google.com/books?id=2pSH73isp94C&amp;pg=PA183&amp;lpg=PA183&amp;dq=%22all+the+rage%22+lea+delaria&amp;source=bl&amp;ots=6TQCBL5vpP&amp;sig=ACfU3U0TTCXznzXpbclWuSUHXMeFy0TvnQ&amp;hl=en&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=2ahUKEwimwOWkwNjkAhVLdcAKHUUpARQQ6AEwC3oECAkQAQ#v=onepage&amp;q=lea%20delaria&amp;f=false">balked</a> at this overt erasure of very real women like her: &ldquo;They needed at least thirty or forty more fat dykes in tuxedos. All those thin, perfectly coiffed girls in Laura Ashley prints &mdash; what kind of lesbian wedding is that? And no one played softball afterward?&rdquo;</p>

<p>Another thing obviously missing from this wedding? A kiss. The actresses <a href="https://metro.co.uk/2017/09/15/carol-and-susan-werent-allowed-kiss-when-they-got-married-on-friends-6931148/">did lobby</a> for one, feeling that going without would be a very odd omission, but producers nixed it, fearing an audience backlash.</p>

<p>It wouldn&rsquo;t have been a first. Though Ellen DeGeneres&rsquo;s coming out was still a year away, gay unions and kisses weren&rsquo;t unheard of: Fox sitcom <em>Roc </em>depicted <a href="https://www.vox.com/2015/6/26/8852929/gay-wedding-tv-history-roc">a same-sex wedding</a> in 1991 (albeit also without a kiss). <em>Roseanne </em>had shown <a href="https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/live-feed/roseanne-same-sex-kiss-episode-mariel-hemingway-controvery-1096660">the first kiss between women</a> (in an episode actually titled &ldquo;Don&rsquo;t Ask, Don&rsquo;t Tell) in 1994 &mdash; though it was played for a big laugh, rather than a sincere, romantic moment.</p>

<p>In the end, &ldquo;The One With the Lesbian Wedding&rdquo; was removed from the air by two local affiliates (in Texas and Ohio), but it did not create the waves that both producers and network executives feared. After hiring a slew of temp workers to answer the expected flood of angry calls, NBC received two. The episode was one of the highest rated in the entire series. In other words, there was no need for so much hand-wringing.</p>

<p>&ldquo;The One With the Lesbian Wedding&rdquo; certainly set a precedent for other shows to follow, and to push the envelope further. Looking back, perhaps the most insidious homophobia on <em>Friends </em>is its desire to make the homophobes in its audience more comfortable.&nbsp;</p>
<h2 class="wp-block-heading">Where are all the people of color?</h2>
<p>Good question. The answer throughout much of <em>Friends</em>&rsquo; run was: primarily on UPN. TV, and particularly network comedy, was very segregated; there were black shows and there were &ldquo;mainstream&rdquo; shows,&nbsp;which explains the Manhattan of <em>Friends</em>,<em> </em>exclusively populated by Caucasians and one Asian woman named Julie.</p>

<p>Those who roll their eyes at criticisms of the show tend to argue that any recent hubbub is just 21st-century PC culture run amok. But the truth is that critics raised this issue with <em>Friends </em>from the beginning &mdash; and from the beginning, the cast and creators were defensive about it, arguing that they were being unfairly dinged because their show was so popular.</p>
<img src="https://platform.vox.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/chorus/uploads/chorus_asset/file/19216543/143479671.jpg.jpg?quality=90&#038;strip=all&#038;crop=0,0,100,100" alt="The cast of Friends." title="The cast of Friends." data-has-syndication-rights="1" data-caption="The (all-white) cast of &lt;em&gt;Friends&lt;/em&gt;, in another wacky promotional photo. | NBC/NBCU Photo Bank via Getty Images" data-portal-copyright="NBC/NBCU Photo Bank via Getty Images" />
<p>During season one, the cast was featured in <a href="https://www.rollingstone.com/tv/tv-news/friends-six-lives-on-videotape-182832/">a <em>Rolling Stone </em>cover story</a> &mdash; a legendary piece that helped launch the buzzy new series into a phenomenon. David Schwimmer spoke of &ldquo;the race issue&rdquo; on behalf of the whole group: &ldquo;Listen, the fact is that we <em>could</em> be more diverse. &#8230; But it doesn&rsquo;t necessarily bother me. You can&rsquo;t do everything to please everybody, and I know that in casting, they did look at all sorts of different people. This just happens to be the group they ended up with.&rdquo;</p>

<p>Compare Schwimmer&rsquo;s response to the comments that <a href="https://www.npr.org/2012/05/07/152183865/lena-dunham-addresses-criticism-aimed-at-girls?ft=1&amp;f=1008?ft=1&amp;f=1008#">Lena Dunham would make</a> more than a decade later, in response to similar criticisms of the first season of <em>Girls</em> &mdash; a show set in another borough of New York but an equally white one.</p>

<p>&ldquo;I really wrote the show from a gut-level place, and each character was a piece of me or based on someone close to me,&rdquo; Dunham said. &ldquo;And only later did I realize that it was four white girls. As much as I can say it was an accident, it was only later as the criticism came out, I thought, &lsquo;I hear this and I want to respond to it. And this is a hard issue to speak to because all I want to do is sound sensitive and not say anything that will horrify anyone or make them feel more isolated, but I did write something that was super-specific to my experience, and I always want to avoid rendering an experience I can&rsquo;t speak to accurately.&rdquo;</p>

<p>Neither of these defenses is particularly compelling. But Dunham&rsquo;s comments &mdash; the first of many she would make on this issue &mdash; seem a lot more considered than Schwimmer&rsquo;s one-and-done argument that the all-white casting was a total coincidence, and that anyway, it didn&rsquo;t bother him.</p>

<p>There&rsquo;s no doubt that most television shows on big networks like NBC were almost entirely white in 1994. (So were most television writers&rsquo; rooms &mdash;&nbsp;including that of <em>Friends</em>. This resulted in far more serious off-screen issues, as evidenced in <a href="https://www.bustle.com/p/the-ruling-in-this-friends-lawsuit-set-back-the-metoo-movement-by-years-now-the-woman-at-the-center-of-it-speaks-out-12636045">the infamous <em>Friends </em>lawsuit</a> mounted by black female writers&rsquo; assistant Amaani Lyle in 2000, on the grounds of racial and sexual harassment.)</p>

<p>It would have been a significant change for <em>Friends </em>to start integrating more people of color into its guest roles and even extras. But <em>Friends </em>spent the better part of a decade as the number-one comedy on television &mdash; and eventually became the number-one show, period. If any<em> </em>series had the power to break that barrier, it was <em>Friends</em>. Instead, it took nine years for a black woman (with a full name! and an actual arc!) to appear on the show, when Aisha Tyler guest-starred as Charlie Wheeler.&nbsp;</p>
<img src="https://platform.vox.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/chorus/uploads/chorus_asset/file/19216548/141324933.jpg.jpg?quality=90&#038;strip=all&#038;crop=0,0,100,100" alt="Aisha Tyler guest-starring on Friends in season nine." title="Aisha Tyler guest-starring on Friends in season nine." data-has-syndication-rights="1" data-caption="Aisha Tyler guest-starred on &lt;em&gt;Friends&lt;/em&gt; as a paleontology professor, first appearing on the show in season nine. | NBC/NBCU Photo Bank/Getty Images" data-portal-copyright="NBC/NBCU Photo Bank/Getty Images" />
<p>What if <em>Friends</em> had cast Tyler or another actress years earlier? What if it had set that precedent in the mid-&rsquo;90s? Imagine how different things might have looked on all the <a href="https://www.vox.com/2014/9/29/6857745/friends-ruined-tv-25th-anniversary">many, many series that followed in its footsteps, trying to replicate the <em>Friends </em>formula</a>. To quote another extremely white show about New York, I couldn&rsquo;t help but wonder &#8230;</p>
<h2 class="wp-block-heading">Is Rachel Jewish?</h2><img src="https://platform.vox.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/chorus/uploads/chorus_asset/file/19216429/138427199.jpg.jpg?quality=90&#038;strip=all&#038;crop=0,0,100,100" alt="Jennifer Aniston as Rachel Green in a promotional photo for Friends." title="Jennifer Aniston as Rachel Green in a promotional photo for Friends." data-has-syndication-rights="1" data-caption="Jennifer Aniston as Rachel Green. | NBC/NBCU Photo Bank via Getty Images" data-portal-copyright="NBC/NBCU Photo Bank via Getty Images" />
<p>This question isn&rsquo;t often raised alongside the other diversity issues on <em>Friends</em>, but just Google &ldquo;Is Rachel Green Jewish?&rdquo; and you will uncover a whole corner of the internet debating it. Critics Emily Nussbaum and Molly Lambert discussed the matter at length on Twitter in 2014, with Nussbaum <a href="https://twitter.com/emilynussbaum/status/499675034030309379">arguing</a> that the name Rachel Green alone is &ldquo;unambiguous &#8230; it&rsquo;s like naming her Shoshannah Lowenstein, in TV terms.&rdquo;</p>

<p>Shortly thereafter, writer Lindsey Weber did her own <a href="https://www.vulture.com/2014/12/friends-countdown-is-rachel-green-jewish.html">investigation</a> into the matter, referencing the many clues (many of which are straight-up stereotypes, like Rachel&rsquo;s teenage nose job and orthodontist fianc&eacute;) that seem to clearly show &mdash; but very carefully not tell &mdash; that Rachel is Jewish.</p>

<p>It&rsquo;s become such a hot topic over the years that even <em>Friends</em> creators Marta Kauffman and David Crane (both of whom are Jewish) have been asked to address it in various interviews. In 2011, Kauffman <a href="https://www.jewishtelegraph.com/prof_119.html">confirmed</a> that Rachel is not only Jewish, but the only &ldquo;real&rdquo; Jew on the series, according to halachic law because she has a Jewish mother. Ross and Monica, however, only have a Jewish father &mdash; though they are both identified early on as Jews. They even celebrated Hanukkah, that one time!</p>
<img src="https://platform.vox.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/chorus/uploads/chorus_asset/file/19216418/908363.jpg.jpg?quality=90&#038;strip=all&#038;crop=0,0,100,100" alt="Ross — free of his Holiday Armadillo garb — discusses Hanukkah with his son Ben" title="Ross — free of his Holiday Armadillo garb — discusses Hanukkah with his son Ben" data-has-syndication-rights="1" data-caption="Ross — free of his Holiday Armadillo garb — discusses Hanukkah with his son Ben. | Warner Bros. Television" data-portal-copyright="Warner Bros. Television" />
<p>So, why all the hush-hush around Rachel&rsquo;s Jewish background? And why does Judaism seem to evaporate entirely as the series progresses? (By season seven, Monica is looking for a Christian minister to officiate her wedding.) The answer is gross but obvious: Because Rachel was supposed to be the beloved girl next door &mdash; not just to Ross but to everyone. And just as it was understood that audiences would accept an all-white Manhattan, it was also believed that they would not (and should not be asked to) accept a Jewish leading lady. That was the case for Rachel and for <em>Friends </em>&mdash; both the most popular girls in school.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Indeed, it was the case for <em>Seinfeld</em> too, when it was on the air (<a href="https://www.vox.com/2014/7/6/5874267/how-seinfeld-changed-tv-30th-anniversary">from 1989 through 1998</a>). That series is right up there with <em>Fiddler on the Roof</em> in terms of Jewish cultural treasures, yet <em>Seinfeld</em> was also critiqued for obfuscating the Judaism of its characters (as with Rachel, there is a similar internet debate over whether or not George Costanza is Jewish). As Jennifer Keishin Armstrong wrote in her book, <a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0176M3YM0/ref=dp-kindle-redirect?_encoding=UTF8&amp;btkr=1"><em>Seinfeldia</em></a>, the show was called out as alternatively, &ldquo;Too Jewish. Not Jewish enough. Even &lsquo;too self-hatingly Jewish.&rsquo;&rdquo;</p>
<h2 class="wp-block-heading">Is Fat Monica fatphobic?</h2>
<p>In interviews about my book, I&rsquo;m often asked if Fat Monica &mdash; Monica Gellar&rsquo;s younger, much heavier self who appears in several flashbacks throughout <em>Friends</em>&rsquo; run &mdash; would still be portrayed the same way if <em>Friends</em> were made today. Would audiences accept her? I think the answer is a sad &ldquo;yes, the majority would.&rdquo;</p>

<p>Fat Monica is one of <em>Friends</em>&rsquo; trickiest issues &mdash; perhaps because, unlike other forms of prejudice, anti-fat bias is still widely socially accepted. Even unrepentant racists know their views won&rsquo;t go over well with everybody. But it is still generally believed that being fat is bad and being thin is better&nbsp;&mdash;&nbsp;and that idea is reinforced in every form of media, not to mention a multi-billion-dollar diet industry reminding us constantly how terrible it is to not be a size four.</p>

<p>So it&rsquo;s no wonder that audiences are on the fence about Fat Monica. I grew up as a fat kid and never once expected to see a version of myself on screen &mdash;&nbsp;let alone a humanized one. At one point, I actually appreciated her because, after all, Fat Monica had a decent career, meaningful friendships, and even some semblance of a romantic life, all of which were things I&rsquo;d never been taught to expect, given my <em>hideous </em>size-16 body.</p>

<p>It wasn&rsquo;t until rewatching <em>Friends</em> in my 30s (when I was literally <a href="https://www.refinery29.com/en-us/the-anti-diet-project">writing</a> about body positivity and anti-diet culture for a living) that I realized, &ldquo;Oh, Fat Monica sucks. Fat Monica isn&rsquo;t even a person. She&rsquo;s not Monica, fat. She&rsquo;s a cartoon character, with a weird, scream-y voice and a totally different personality (if you can call an affinity for mayonnaise and Kit Kats a personality). Her entire life is eating and pining and occasionally dancing to disco music with donuts in her hands for no reason. She&rsquo;s a clown. And audiences still laugh at clowns.&nbsp;</p>
<div class="youtube-embed"><iframe title="Fat Monica Dance" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/afyOTw5FrpM?rel=0" allowfullscreen allow="accelerometer *; clipboard-write *; encrypted-media *; gyroscope *; picture-in-picture *; web-share *;"></iframe></div>
<p>Fat shaming, mockery, and stereotyping may have gone out of style, but they still persist, <a href="https://www.vox.com/culture/2018/8/9/17661992/insatiable-review-netflix-season-one">on screen</a> and <a href="https://www.vox.com/the-goods/2018/10/29/18039548/wendys-customer-chubby-receipts-restaurants-racial-slurs-insults">off</a>. Even lauded progressive comedies like <em>Big Mouth </em>treat fat characters less like people and more like tropes. Dramas too, like <em>This Is Us</em>, use fatness as a defining characteristic (and not a positive one). So would Fat Monica still be accepted today? Probably. She might be met with backlash and her fair share of internet think pieces. She might do fewer doughnut dances. But she still wouldn&rsquo;t be Monica, fat. She&rsquo;d be Fat Monica.</p>
<h2 class="wp-block-heading">What about Chandler’s dad?</h2>
<p>Yeeeeeah, what about her. This character, and the treatment of her, is the clearest evidence that <em>Friends </em>was indeed a product of its era &mdash; an era that was awful for transgender people. I think viewers rightfully cringe when they see Chandler&rsquo;s dad and hear the way her family talks about her. Kauffman and Crane <a href="https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/style/should-we-forgive-friends-for-feeling-a-little-offensive-in-2016/2016/02/18/e8d47280-d0d3-11e5-b2bc-988409ee911b_story.html?noredirect=on">confirmed</a> she was a trans woman, after <em>Friends</em> ended &mdash;&nbsp;though during its run, the term &ldquo;transgender&rdquo; wasn&rsquo;t as widely known. On the show, she was mostly referred to as a gay man, a drag queen, or a cross-dresser. And she was always discussed with abject disdain.&nbsp;</p>

<p>This is probably a good place to point out that I&rsquo;m a straight, cisgender white lady, so when writing about these issues with <em>Friends</em> for my book, I made a point of speaking to people who were not. Considering how angry these topics made me, I expected a lot more outrage from people who were directly affected by them &mdash; especially when it came to Chandler&rsquo;s dad. Instead, as trans writer/editor <a href="https://www.meyrude.com/">Mey Rude</a> told me, she was &ldquo;better than nothing.&rdquo;</p>

<p>Rude explained that until she saw the <em>Friends </em>episodes with Chandler&rsquo;s dad (who I refer to as such only for the sake of clarity; we never learn the name she actually goes by, aside from her stage name, Helena Handbasket) she&rsquo;d seen virtually no other trans characters on TV &mdash; except for the occasional murder victim on <em>Law &amp; Order</em>. So Rude used to sit in her college dorm room watching <a href="https://www.metacritic.com/movie/transamerica/trailers/1084498">the trailer for the 2005 Felicity Huffman film <em>Transamerica</em></a> over and over again. As a young trans woman, not yet out, she was desperate for a hopeful story &mdash;&nbsp;anything that might indicate she wouldn&rsquo;t end up totally ostracized or murdered. In Chandler&rsquo;s dad, Rude saw a trans woman with a life: &ldquo;She has a career, she has a boyfriend!&rdquo; Yes, she is treated like absolute garbage at her son&rsquo;s wedding. &ldquo;But they <em>do </em>invite her to the wedding.&rdquo;</p>

<p>Of course, there are other trans folks who justifiably argue that there&rsquo;s nothing positive about featuring a trans woman who is used entirely as a punchline for hurtful, offensive, bad jokes. As Samantha Riedel <a href="https://www.them.us/story/friends-is-transphobic">wrote at Them</a>, <em>Friends</em>&rsquo; &ldquo;&lsquo;realistic&rsquo; portrayal of cultural attitudes toward queerness ended up reinforcing those same attitudes, not driving society forward.&rdquo; (Riedel also observes that in the pilot, when Chandler &ldquo;idly muses that he sometimes wishes to be a lesbian,&rdquo; his friends respond by taking &ldquo;every opportunity to deride his queer quirks.&rdquo;)&nbsp;</p>

<p>Even Kathleen Turner, who played Chandler&rsquo;s dad, <a href="https://www.gaytimes.co.uk/culture/99396/friends-actress-kathleen-turner-says-show-hasnt-aged-well-lgbtq-rights-exclusive/">acknowledges</a> it wasn&rsquo;t a good look for <em>Friends</em>: &ldquo;I don&rsquo;t think it&rsquo;s aged well,&rdquo; she said in 2018. &ldquo;It was a 30-minute sitcom. It became a phenomenon, but no one ever took it seriously as a social comment.&rdquo;</p>

<p>Turner&rsquo;s point is an important one &mdash; and, I think, key to understanding why <em>Friends</em>&rsquo; legacy is so polarizing today. Was the show homophobic, racist, and willing to reduce marginalized people to punchlines? Yes. It wasn&rsquo;t any more offensive than other series of its time, and it aired in an era when it was easier to survive scrutiny over issues of diversity and inclusion. But <em>Friends </em>blew up bigger than any of its peers, and its popularity has managed to endure into an era when we think very critically about the messages television shoves into our brains &mdash;&nbsp;especially television we&rsquo;ve been consuming for 25 years.</p>

<p class="has-end-mark">No matter what side you fall on, the debate over <em>Friends </em>is a healthy one. It doesn&rsquo;t take away from what&rsquo;s magical about the series &mdash; the cast&rsquo;s uncanny chemistry, the fine-tuned jokes that still make us laugh (&ldquo;<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2u0sN9stbA"><em>PIVOT&rdquo;</em></a><em>).</em> Rather, it adds something just as valuable. Today, this comfort-food show serves an additional purpose: <em>Friends </em>highlights both how far we&rsquo;ve come and how much further we have to go.</p>
<hr class="wp-block-separator" />
<p><a href="https://www.kelseymiller.com/">Kelsey Miller</a> is a freelance journalist and the author of <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Ill-Be-There-You-Friends/dp/1335928286"><em>I&rsquo;ll Be There For You: The One About Friends</em></a>. Follow her on <a href="https://twitter.com/mskelseymiller">Twitter</a> and <a href="https://www.instagram.com/mskelseymiller/">Instagram</a> at @mskelseymiller.</p>
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			<author>
				<name>Kelsey Miller</name>
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			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Aidy Bryant’s clothes in Shrill are a plus-size dream. Here’s why you can’t buy them.]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.vox.com/the-goods/2019/3/20/18273248/shrill-costumes-plus-size-aidy-bryant-where-to-buy-nowhere" />
			<id>https://www.vox.com/the-goods/2019/3/20/18273248/shrill-costumes-plus-size-aidy-bryant-where-to-buy-nowhere</id>
			<updated>2019-03-20T10:35:57-04:00</updated>
			<published>2019-03-20T10:40:00-04:00</published>
			<category scheme="https://www.vox.com" term="Culture" /><category scheme="https://www.vox.com" term="Money" /><category scheme="https://www.vox.com" term="TV" />
							<summary type="html"><![CDATA[When Amanda Needham took the job as costume designer on Shrill, the new Hulu series based on writer, activist, and self-described &#8220;loud woman&#8221; Lindy West&#8217;s memoir, she knew that dressing plus-size performers would be a little tricky. &#8220;I was excited to take on the challenge,&#8221; she says. Lead actress Aidy Bryant, who plays Annie on [&#8230;]]]></summary>
			
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<img alt="" data-caption="Aidy Bryan (center) plays Annie in Shrill. Many of her clothes were made from scratch by costume designer Amanda Needham. | Andrew Eccles/Hulu" data-portal-copyright="Andrew Eccles/Hulu" data-has-syndication-rights="1" src="https://platform.vox.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/chorus/uploads/chorus_asset/file/15973187/SHR_104_20180830_AR__0317RT.jpg?quality=90&#038;strip=all&#038;crop=0,0,100,100" />
	<figcaption>
	Aidy Bryan (center) plays Annie in Shrill. Many of her clothes were made from scratch by costume designer Amanda Needham. | Andrew Eccles/Hulu	</figcaption>
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<p>When Amanda Needham took the job as costume designer on <a href="https://www.vox.com/culture/2019/3/14/18241791/hulu-shrill-review-aidy-bryant-lindy-west"><em>Shrill</em></a>, the new Hulu series based on writer, activist, and self-described &ldquo;loud woman&rdquo; Lindy West&rsquo;s memoir, she knew that dressing plus-size performers would be a little tricky. &ldquo;I was excited to take on the challenge,&rdquo; she says. Lead actress Aidy Bryant, who plays Annie on the show, warned her that it might be harder than she thought &mdash;&nbsp;maybe impossible. &ldquo;I was like, &lsquo;No <em>way</em>, girl! I got this.&rdquo;</p>

<p>The show captures Annie at a turning point in her life, as she consciously chooses to break free of the fat-girl tropes imposed on her and come into her own as a woman &mdash; a fat woman. The first season follows her as she pushes forward in her career (despite a difficult, anti-fat boss), tries to build an adult relationship with her juvenile boyfriend, and confronts the relentless and ridiculous biases that plus-size people face. In many ways, the show is about challenging those biases and depicting women like Annie as people with real, normal lives.</p>

<p>But when it came to creating Annie&rsquo;s real, normal wardrobe, Needham quickly ran into a roadblock. As soon as she started looking for pieces, Needham learned the ugly truth about plus-size clothing: It is, for the most part, ugly &mdash; as well as cheap, poorly made, and, above all, limited. So she started from scratch, designing the majority of Annie&rsquo;s clothing herself with the help of her team. Now she&rsquo;s on a mission to make <em>Shrill </em>a conversation starter among clothing designers and retailers: &ldquo;The fashion industry <em>needs </em>to catch up.&rdquo;</p>

<p><strong>First off, congratulations. There&rsquo;s been such a huge response to <em>Shrill</em>, and to the style in particular.</strong></p>

<p>My gosh, it&rsquo;s been wild! I&rsquo;m loving it, though. I&rsquo;ve been getting all these people reaching out to me separately, just to say &ldquo;Thank you for seeing me.&rdquo; It makes me want to cry.</p>
<img src="https://platform.vox.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/chorus/uploads/chorus_asset/file/15973161/SHR_101_AR_20180809_0597RT.jpg?quality=90&#038;strip=all&#038;crop=0,0,100,100" alt="" title="" data-has-syndication-rights="1" data-caption="Aidy Bryant as Annie in the first episode of &lt;em&gt;Shrill&lt;/em&gt;. | Allyson Riggs/Hulu" data-portal-copyright="Allyson Riggs/Hulu" />
<p><strong>I bet! Obviously, this show is a first in many ways, but as a plus woman myself, I&rsquo;d never had the experience of watching a series and really taking note of the clothing and thinking, &ldquo;Ooh, where can I get that dress?&rdquo; It was a very pleasant surprise.</strong></p>

<p>I think a lot of people feel that way. We never see women of size in fashiony pieces. I couldn&rsquo;t even find anything for inspiration. You can&rsquo;t find any examples of looks on people over, like, a size 8 &mdash; and even a size 8 is really a faux pas.</p>

<p>Before this show, I really believed in the fashion industry more. In the beginning, I think maybe I had a little ego about it. Aidy knew going in that this was going to be a struggle, and I was like, &ldquo;Oh, there&rsquo;s stuff for you out there, don&rsquo;t worry! I&rsquo;m about to show you the world, and it&rsquo;s going to be amazing.&rdquo; Then we ordered all this stuff and when it came in, it was terrible &mdash; all polyblend and so cheap. I was like, where are they even buying<em> </em>this fabric? It was borderline insulting. And the sad truth is there was <em>nothing </em>out there. It was a dead zone.</p>

<p><strong>So how did you make do? How do you create a distinct personal style for a character when the options are so limited?</strong></p>

<p>We just had to go back to the drawing board and make this world ourselves. It was absolutely a collaboration. Aidy has such<em> </em>incredible fashion sense, so I took a lot of cues from her everyday look and then added some moments where it felt more elevated in terms of colors and cuts, just to highlight and celebrate her body.</p>

<p><strong>You literally had to make some of the pieces yourself, correct?</strong></p>

<p>Yes, most of them actually. There are a couple off-the-rack items. She wears a Rachel Antonoff dress in the first episode, and a Mara Hoffman swimsuit at the pool party, but almost all the other pieces are custom. All the dresses.</p>
<img src="https://platform.vox.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/chorus/uploads/chorus_asset/file/15973201/SHR_105_20180906_AR__0533RT.jpg?quality=90&#038;strip=all&#038;crop=0,0,100,100" alt="" title="" data-has-syndication-rights="1" data-caption="Annie (Aidy Bryant) in episode four of Hulu’s &lt;em&gt;Shrill&lt;/em&gt;. | Allyson Riggs/Hulu" data-portal-copyright="Allyson Riggs/Hulu" />
<p><strong><em>All</em> of them? Wow. </strong></p>

<p>I know. This is the hardest thing for me right now &mdash; answering all these questions from people reaching out to me on Instagram, wanting to know where they can buy these things. It really underscores the message that the fashion industry <em>needs </em>to start catching up.</p>

<p>Truly, designing this show would have been impossible to do off the rack. You actually cannot create a look for a plus-size character without a tailor and the resources to create customized pieces for their body. Because the retail stuff &mdash; it doesn&rsquo;t seem like it&rsquo;s plus-size people designing them. It&rsquo;s like they&rsquo;re guessing what a plus-size body is shaped like. There&rsquo;s no attention to detail, and once you get past a certain size, it really seems like the designers are &#8230; uncomfortable with those bodies. There&rsquo;s so much shame around weight, I&rsquo;ve realized, and we&rsquo;ve got to get rid of it. I want the industry to just celebrate whatever size we are and work with it. It&rsquo;s like, stop building tents and caftans for anyone over a size 14.</p>

<p><strong>Amen. Speaking of celebrating bodies, let&rsquo;s talk about the pool party. What was your goal for that scene?</strong></p>

<p>I wanted it to feel like an oasis. I wanted lots of color and a lot of really stylish moments. Often I think plus-size swimwear can be so one-dimensional. I mean, how many black bathing suits can you look at before you&rsquo;ve seen them all? And at a certain size, everything starts to get bigger and really drapey, and it&rsquo;s more about covering a body than celebrating it in any way.</p>

<p>I just felt so upset that there was nothing available for these women that I worked even harder to give them options. I really didn&rsquo;t want to just roll into there with one<em> </em>rack. So we built a lot of those pieces and ordered as much as we possibly could. We wanted to present a world that made everyone feel accepted and seen. There were so many tears that day. It was incredible.</p>

<p><strong>What was it like working with the women in that scene? Was everyone comfortable, dancing on camera and being exposed like that?</strong></p>

<p>Oh, I&rsquo;m not kidding you when I say <em>everybody </em>was crying, myself included. It was crazy. I remember our call time was really early and we all got there before sunrise. By the time the sun came up, everyone was dressed and everyone was in tears. It was because everyone felt like they were heard and everyone felt<em> </em>so beautiful. My team catered to every single woman there, and everyone got the full works &mdash; swimsuits, bags, bracelets, bags.</p>

<p>Lindy West had a cameo, and I think her look was one of my favorites. It was a black suit, but we designed it with all these cutouts, and we gave her a beautiful flower crown. But there was not one single person there where we were like, &ldquo;Oh, I&rsquo;m sorry, we have nothing for you.&rdquo; No. It was, &ldquo;Oh, you&rsquo;re a size 24? Here are your <em>options</em>.&rdquo;</p>
<img src="https://platform.vox.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/chorus/uploads/chorus_asset/file/15973204/SHR_104_20180829_AR__0365RT.jpg?quality=90&#038;strip=all&#038;crop=0,0,100,100" alt="" title="" data-has-syndication-rights="1" data-caption="Annie (not pictured) and Fran (Lolly Adefope, center left) attend the Fat Babe Pool Party. | Andrew Eccles" data-portal-copyright="Andrew Eccles" />
<p><strong>Options! That&rsquo;s huge! Just hearing you say that, I can understand why everyone was crying.</strong></p>

<p>It really felt like we were a part of something bigger that day. I&rsquo;ve been doing this job for a long time, and there are a lot of special moments and great times when you&rsquo;re producing and building characters. But I&rsquo;ve never been a part of something so &#8230; humane? Something where you&rsquo;re actually working with a part of our population that is just not seen or heard. It was just so cool to be a part of that process.</p>

<p><strong>There&rsquo;s a part in that scene where Annie compliments another woman&rsquo;s skirt and says how hard it is to find plain staple items like that&nbsp;&mdash; without ruffles or garish prints. I really appreciated seeing Annie sometimes dressed in just basic jeans and a T-shirt. Were any of those off the rack?</strong></p>

<p>Yes, some of the basics were from Asos. The T-shirt where she&rsquo;s walking with her mom was from there. But the brand we used the most was Tuesday Bassen. It&rsquo;s an LA-based designer, and they make XXL-5X. They&rsquo;re <em>so </em>on it, and they use recycled fabrics too.</p>

<p><strong>Much of this season is about Annie really embracing and embodying herself for the first time but struggling with some moments of insecurity along the way. Did you try to reflect that journey in her wardrobe?</strong></p>

<p>Y&rsquo;know, we did have those conversations during prep, but my stance is that I didn&rsquo;t want it to be about the wardrobe. Aidy is a genius, and she doesn&rsquo;t need the clothes to tell the story. And no one wanted it to be like, oh, here&rsquo;s the part of the story where she&rsquo;s suddenly Sarah Jessica Parker in <em>Sex and the City</em>, coming out in this crazy outfit. I really wanted it to be about her trying, and showing vulnerability when she wanted to &mdash;&nbsp;and oftentimes we did that <em>without </em>clothes. There are these incredibly vulnerable moments where she&rsquo;s not wearing clothes, like when she&rsquo;s with Ryan.</p>

<p><strong>I wanted to ask about those scenes, and the lingerie specifically. Those moments are so intimate and emotional, and I imagine it&rsquo;s hard for anyone to be exposed in that scenario. How did you and Aidy work together to find looks that felt comfortable &mdash; and also just not crappy-looking underwear?</strong></p>

<p>Oh, my god, the fittings for those scenes were amazing. It was really just Aidy and I in her trailer, and we have such a good relationship, thankfully. She had to do sex scenes where she was exposed or straddling the actor, and we rehearsed a lot of them, just to get a full look at what the lingerie was going to do &mdash; where the underwear was going to go, how the bra was going to look in different positions.</p>

<p>We did custom-design a lot of that, but we also used Rihanna&rsquo;s Fenty line, which was a real hit. She has some really beautiful pieces that go up to a 2 or 3X. But with most of the lingerie, again, once you get over a certain size, it&rsquo;s like everyone has to look like a nursemaid or something. It&rsquo;s all really padded and the straps are really thick.</p>
<img src="https://platform.vox.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/chorus/uploads/chorus_asset/file/15973214/SHR_101_AR_20180808_0128RT.jpg?quality=90&#038;strip=all&#038;crop=0,0,100,100" alt="" title="" data-has-syndication-rights="1" data-caption="Annie and Ryan (Luka Jones) in their intimates, in &lt;em&gt;Shrill&lt;/em&gt;. | Allyson Riggs/Hulu" data-portal-copyright="Allyson Riggs/Hulu" />
<p><strong>Plus intimates are often enormous. As with other clothing, it seems like it&rsquo;s more about hiding a body or obscuring its shape, rather than just dressing it. Would you agree?</strong></p>

<p>I would <em>wholeheartedly </em>agree with that. That&rsquo;s the biggest thing.</p>

<p>And &#8230; okay, everything&rsquo;s been really positive for the most part, but there are also people sliding into my DMs saying things like, &ldquo;Why are you celebrating obesity?&rdquo; First of all, what I&rsquo;m celebrating is people feeling good about themselves and having no shame. And second, just because you are a bigger person doesn&rsquo;t mean there&rsquo;s something wrong with you. I know skinny people who can&rsquo;t run a mile. Good health and poor health comes in all different forms. There&rsquo;s such a misconception with that.</p>

<p><strong>Yes, misconception and bias. It&rsquo;s really telling when someone brings up health or uses phrases like &ldquo;promoting obesity.&rdquo;</strong></p>

<p>Yeah! I see those messages and think, how do <em>you </em>know? Who are you to look at anybody<em> </em>and tell them they have health issues? I don&rsquo;t see a doctorate after your name, so back off. It&rsquo;s so wild! But it also makes me feel so happy to take a stand and have conversations like this one.</p>

<p>You know, when I was asked to do this project, I had just wrapped another show. I have two little girls and I was thinking I just couldn&rsquo;t jump into another series right away. But the producers asked me to just please read it, so I did. And at the end of the day, I realized this is the work I want to do. I want to be in people&rsquo;s corners &mdash; those who feel like they aren&rsquo;t being represented in fashion. So that&rsquo;s why it was really important to me to push through and do this. These are the conversations I want to be having.</p>

<p><strong>What do you hope others in the industry take away from your work?</strong></p>

<p>This should be a wake-up call. It was, truly, for me. We cater to people on the other end of the spectrum all the time. We&rsquo;re making J. Crew in XXS, but designers can&rsquo;t even think of making something in XXL.</p>

<p><strong>What kills me is the designers who argue that it&rsquo;s extra<em> </em>fabric, and that&rsquo;s why they don&rsquo;t make those sizes, when, of course, the XXS is not cheaper than the medium. It doesn&rsquo;t make sense.</strong></p>

<p>It is such<em> </em>bullshit. And it is so important to me to be at the table for those conversations. There are some designers and retailers out there doing good work, like Asos, 11 Honor&eacute;, and Wild Fang. Anthropologie just announced a plus-size line. But it&rsquo;s still kind of a dead zone out there. Zara has nothing. Eloquii is okay but it all looks the same after a while.</p>

<p>I&rsquo;m hoping <em>Shrill </em>lights a fire under people and starts opening things up, because I would love to be able to put off-the-rack clothes on Aidy for the second season. Designing the clothes is really fun, but on a human level, it would be much better to see plus-size people represented in the same way that tiny, tiny models are &mdash; who <em>don&rsquo;t </em>represent the general population. That&rsquo;s my motto now: Catch the hell up.</p>

<p><em>Want more stories from The Goods by Vox? </em><a href="http://vox.com/goods-newsletter"><em>Sign up for our newsletter here.</em></a><em>&nbsp;</em></p>
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