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	<title type="text">Lisa Dickey | Vox</title>
	<subtitle type="text">Our world has too much noise and too little context. Vox helps you understand what matters.</subtitle>

	<updated>2017-02-14T16:06:09+00:00</updated>

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		<entry>
			
			<author>
				<name>Lisa Dickey</name>
			</author>
			
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[I&#8217;ve been visiting Russia for nearly 30 years. I&#8217;ve never seen Russians prouder than under Putin.]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.vox.com/world/2017/2/14/14549128/vladimir-putin-popular-russia-proud-patriotic-trump-ukraine-crackdown-sanctions-syria-dissident" />
			<id>https://www.vox.com/world/2017/2/14/14549128/vladimir-putin-popular-russia-proud-patriotic-trump-ukraine-crackdown-sanctions-syria-dissident</id>
			<updated>2017-02-14T11:06:09-05:00</updated>
			<published>2017-02-14T11:06:07-05:00</published>
			<category scheme="https://www.vox.com" term="Donald Trump" /><category scheme="https://www.vox.com" term="Politics" /><category scheme="https://www.vox.com" term="Russia" /><category scheme="https://www.vox.com" term="Syria" /><category scheme="https://www.vox.com" term="World Politics" />
							<summary type="html"><![CDATA[One evening in October 2015, my Russian friend Valera and I went to the movies in the Siberian city of Novosibirsk. There was a multiplex not far from his apartment, and with a dozen movies to choose from, we decided to see The Martian. As we walked out of the movie, I asked how he [&#8230;]]]></summary>
			
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<img alt="" data-caption="Calendars featuring Russian President Vladimir Putin are wildly popular in his country. | Photo courtesy of Lisa Dickey" data-portal-copyright="Photo courtesy of Lisa Dickey" data-has-syndication-rights="1" src="https://platform.vox.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/chorus/uploads/chorus_asset/file/7951845/2___putin_calendar.jpg?quality=90&#038;strip=all&#038;crop=0.52631578947368,3.3707865168539,68.105263157895,96.441947565543" />
	<figcaption>
	Calendars featuring Russian President Vladimir Putin are wildly popular in his country. | Photo courtesy of Lisa Dickey	</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>One evening in October 2015, my Russian friend Valera and I went to the movies in the Siberian city of Novosibirsk. There was a multiplex not far from his apartment, and with a dozen movies to choose from, we decided to see <em>The Martian</em>.</p>

<p>As we walked out of the movie, I asked how he liked it. To my surprise, he began fuming about a scene I hadn&rsquo;t thought twice about: a plot point in which the Americans ask China, not Russia, for help in getting a powerful enough rocket to return to Mars.</p>

<p>&ldquo;Why would the Americans ask <em>China </em>for a rocket?&rdquo; he practically spat. &ldquo;Everybody knows the Russians have the greatest rockets in the world. We were the <em>pioneers</em> in space!&rdquo;</p>

<p>I told him I didn&rsquo;t think this was meant as a slap at Russia, and that as far as I knew, the Chinese had an impressive space program too. But Valera &mdash; who&rsquo;s actually one of my more apolitical friends in Russia &mdash; was convinced that the film&rsquo;s producers, most likely under the direction of the US government, had picked China to deliberately belittle Russia. This was a pretty wild assertion, but it&rsquo;s a sign of the times in Vladimir Putin&rsquo;s Russia.</p>

<p>For the past few weeks, President Trump has unsettled foreign leaders around the world, not to mention both Democrats and Republicans at home, with his unrelenting praise of Putin. He regularly lauds the Russian leader as smart, strong, and popular &mdash; and I can personally attest that he&rsquo;s right about that last trait.</p>

<p>I saw Putin&rsquo;s enormous public support firsthand during three months I spent in Russia in 2015. My takeaway: Many ordinary Russians believe he has has &mdash; to paraphrase a Trumpism &mdash; made Russia great again. And they love him for it. While Western observers criticize Putin for his dismal human rights record, brutal crackdowns on dissent, the annexation of Crimea, and apparent desire to upend the geopolitical order, none of these things has dented Putin&rsquo;s public support at home.</p>

<p>This is the story of how Vladimir Putin transformed himself from being a little-known mayoral adviser to the most popular and powerful leader in recent Russian history. &nbsp;&nbsp;</p>
<h2 class="wp-block-heading">Putin inherited a broken, dispirited country. Russians believe he’s fixed all that.</h2>
<p>In 1995, 2005, and 2015, I took three identical trips across Russia (I&rsquo;ve been visiting Russia since 1988). On each of those three 5,000-plus trips from Vladivostok to St. Petersburg, I stopped in the same 11 cities and interviewed the same people &mdash; sort of like the British documentary series <em>7-Up</em>, but with Russians.</p>

<p>On the first trip, in 1995, the country was in shambles. Just four years out of the Soviet era, the Russian economy was tanking and the value of the ruble had plummeted, wiping out many people&rsquo;s savings. A tiny sliver of enormously wealthy people was perched at the top of the economic ladder, while most of the rest struggled. Western goods were now available in Russia, but the general population couldn&rsquo;t afford to buy them. And anyone wanting to start or run a business had to contend with the ever-present Russian mafia, which routinely demanded exorbitant sums for &ldquo;protection.&rdquo;</p>

<p>The president then was Boris Yeltsin, who was, it&rsquo;s fair to say, not a paragon of stability. During the course of his presidency, he &nbsp;morphed from heroic resister of the 1991 coup attempt, standing valiantly atop a tank, to a fleshy, unpredictable, alcohol-fueled embarrassment. In its 2007 obituary of Yeltsin, Time magazine <a href="http://content.time.com/time/world/article/0,8599,1613579,00.html">observed</a> that &ldquo;in the US, Boris Yeltsin will be more fondly remembered as the man who turned the menacing Russian bear of Cold War fear-mongering into a warm and cuddly creature, supine, pitiable and willing to perform in exchange for scraps.&rdquo;</p>

<p>For a country that had for decades been one of the world&rsquo;s two superpowers, this was an ego-smashing fall. When I asked about America on that 1995 trip, Russians often responded with admiration, even envy. One 18-year-old in Moscow, a McDonald&rsquo;s employee named Yuri, told me that &ldquo;the only people who criticize the wave of American culture in Russia are either nationalists or they&#8217;re crazy.&rdquo; And a 14-year-old named Denis, who was puffing on cigarettes when I interviewed him, told me, &ldquo;I would definitely go live in America. Right now. No question.&rdquo;</p>

<p>The prevailing attitude among most of the Russians I spoke with seemed to be a friendly, wistful appreciation of the United States. And Putin was a complete unknown, working in St. Petersburg under then-Mayor Anatoly Sobchak.</p>
<figure class="wp-block-pullquote alignleft"><blockquote><p>Many ordinary Russians believe Putin has made Russia great again. And they love him for it.</p></blockquote></figure>
<p>On my second trip, in 2005, things had changed. By then, Putin had been president for five years, and I saw a marked difference in the fortunes not only of the Russians I&rsquo;d first interviewed 10 years earlier but of their towns and cities as well.</p>

<p>Almost all the people I talked to, in places such as Chita, Chelyabinsk, Novosibirsk, Irkutsk, and Kazan, were better off financially than they&rsquo;d been in 1995; many now had credit cards, had traveled to Turkey or Thailand on vacation, and could afford to buy imported clothes and food. In their towns, potholed streets had been repaired, bridges had been built, new apartment buildings were going up. Between 1995 and 2005, the price of oil nearly tripled, and with that rise came a rise in Russia&rsquo;s fortunes. In the eyes of many Russians, these improvements were a direct result of Putin&rsquo;s leadership.</p>

<p>Part of Putin&rsquo;s appeal was that, unlike Yeltsin, he radiated discipline: He didn&rsquo;t drink, didn&rsquo;t smoke, and was a black belt in karate. His actions, words, and very bearing conveyed a message of Russian strength, and the effect on Russians&rsquo; pride was palpable. It reminded me of the effect Ronald Reagan had on conservative Americans in the early 1980s, when he followed the national malaise of the Carter era with his relentless message that America could be great again.</p>
<h2 class="wp-block-heading">This is why Russians buy Putin-emblazoned refrigerator magnets, T-shirts, and calendars</h2>
<p>When I made the third trip, in 2015, a few themes kept surfacing: 1) people (such as my friend Valera) felt that the USA didn&rsquo;t sufficiently respect Russia; 2) they loved and admired Putin; and 3) they were confident that Putin would restore Russia&rsquo;s proper standing on the world stage &mdash; regardless of whether that involved lifting up Russia, knocking the US down a peg, or some combination of the two.</p>

<p>I&rsquo;d wondered whether Putin was really as popular as reports and polls suggested &mdash; a July 2016 <a href="https://sputniknews.com/russia/201607271043671581-putin-approve-poll/">survey</a> from a Moscow-based nonprofit pegged it at an astonishing 82 percent &mdash; and it didn&rsquo;t take long to determine that he was. Everywhere I went, I saw his face: gazing out from refrigerator magnets, emblazoned on T-shirts, plastered all over wall calendars. In people&rsquo;s homes, I saw framed photos of him placed lovingly beside family photos in the living room shkaf, or bookcase. One woman in Vladivostok, in response to my question of how she felt about Putin, picked up her framed portrait and gently kissed his face.</p>

<p>He was fabulously popular, even though the Russian economy was once again in a slump. Between January 2014 and September 2015, when I landed in Vladivostok, the value of the ruble fell by half, obliterating Russians&rsquo; purchasing power. Yet almost none of the Russians I spoke to blamed Putin. Instead, they blamed the Americans (and the West generally), for two reasons. First, for the sanctions we imposed following the annexation of Crimea. And second, because they were convinced we had artificially depressed oil prices specifically in order to damage their economy, which is heavily dependent on income from oil exports.</p>

<p>This, more than anything, persuaded me that Putin&rsquo;s power runs deep and wide in Russia. It&rsquo;s easy for a leader to gain support when the economy is strong. What&rsquo;s difficult is maintaining that support even as things start to go south, and Putin has done that.</p>
<figure class="wp-block-pullquote alignleft"><blockquote><p>One Russian, asked how she felt about Putin, picked up a framed portrait and gently kissed his face</p></blockquote></figure>
<p>Yet of course there&rsquo;s that other, darker reason he&rsquo;s able to maintain such sky-high support. During his time in power, Putin has systematically stamped out political dissent and gutted what had once been a relatively free press. Opposition leader Boris Nemtsov was shot dead within sight of the Kremlin in February of 2015. Alexander Litvinenko was poisoned with polonium-210 in London. And as I write this, fierce Putin critic Vladimir Kara-Murza &mdash; who already survived one poisoning in 2015 &mdash; is in grave condition in Moscow, after his organs failed following an apparent second poisoning. He&rsquo;s 35 years old.</p>

<p>Journalists who&rsquo;ve criticized Putin&rsquo;s government have also felt its wrath, being blacklisted, intimidated, threatened with prosecution, and occasionally murdered. Opposition journalism has been relentlessly suppressed; as a result, Russians who get their news from television are treated to a steady diet of pro-Putin &mdash; and anti-US &mdash; reports. And while more sophisticated consumers of Russian media realize these reports are one-sided, others don&rsquo;t.</p>

<p>Many Russians continue to believe that the Russian press is completely free. A wealthy, world-traveling woman in Chelyabinsk named Masha was one of these: &ldquo;The Russian press is certainly more free than the American press,&rdquo; she told me over lunch in October 2015. When I asked her about journalists such as Anna Politkovskaya, shot dead in her Moscow apartment building following critical investigative reporting in Chechnya, Masha replied simply, &ldquo;Journalists get killed in America too.&rdquo;</p>

<p>Which brings us back around to our new president, Donald Trump. As his White House team continues to disseminate statements that are demonstrably untrue, while simultaneously engaging in a running effort to discredit CNN as a &ldquo;fake news&rdquo; operation, it does appear that he&rsquo;s taking a page out of the Kremlin&rsquo;s playbook. And I couldn&rsquo;t help but notice that his recent rebuttal to Bill O&rsquo;Reilly &mdash; &ldquo;We have a lot of killers. &hellip; You think our country is so innocent?&rdquo; &mdash; sounds an awful lot like the assertions of Masha in Chelyabinsk.</p>

<p>Amid all this, one fact is inescapably true. Yes, in <em>The Martian</em>, the US turned to the Chinese for rocket help. But even so, there&rsquo;s no doubt that unlike in the 1990s, Americans are once again paying very close attention to what Russia does. In the eyes of many Russians, Vladimir Putin has made their country great again. Now we must ensure that our own president&rsquo;s quest to &ldquo;make America great again&rdquo; doesn&rsquo;t come at a similar cost.</p>

<p><em>Lisa Dickey is the author of </em><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HW6UKY0/ref=dp-kindle-redirect?_encoding=UTF8&amp;btkr=1">Bears in the Streets: Three Journeys Across a Changing Russia</a><em> (St. Martin&#8217;s Press, 2017). As a book collaborator and ghostwriter, she&nbsp;helped write 17 published nonfiction books, including eight&nbsp;New York Times&nbsp;best-sellers. Dickey began her career in St. Petersburg, Russia, writing articles for&nbsp;the Moscow Times&nbsp;and&nbsp;USA Today. She also regularly appears at live events such as the Moth Grand Slam.&nbsp;</em></p>
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			<entry>
			
			<author>
				<name>Lisa Dickey</name>
			</author>
			
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[How travel tech evolved over three decades during my three trips to Russia]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.vox.com/2017/1/31/14431178/russia-technology-travel-kara-swisher-internet" />
			<id>https://www.vox.com/2017/1/31/14431178/russia-technology-travel-kara-swisher-internet</id>
			<updated>2017-01-31T13:03:23-05:00</updated>
			<published>2017-01-31T08:00:01-05:00</published>
			<category scheme="https://www.vox.com" term="Technology" />
							<summary type="html"><![CDATA[In the summer of 1994, I decided to move to St. Petersburg, Russia, to become a writer. I told my friend Kara that if she wanted to stay in touch, she&#8217;d have to start using email, since calling would be far too expensive. She had never used email before, so I said, &#8220;Just sign up [&#8230;]]]></summary>
			
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<img alt="" data-caption="The author takes a selfie in St. Petersburg during the latest of her three tech-enabled trips to Russia. | Lisa Dickey" data-portal-copyright="Lisa Dickey" data-has-syndication-rights="1" src="https://platform.vox.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/chorus/uploads/chorus_asset/file/7898625/LDRussia.jpg?quality=90&#038;strip=all&#038;crop=0,0,100,100" />
	<figcaption>
	The author takes a selfie in St. Petersburg during the latest of her three tech-enabled trips to Russia. | Lisa Dickey	</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>In the summer of 1994, I decided to move to St. Petersburg, Russia, to become a writer. I told my friend Kara that if she wanted to stay in touch, she&rsquo;d have to start using email, since calling would be far too expensive. She had never used email before, so I said, &ldquo;Just sign up with that service America Online &mdash; they make it really easy.&rdquo;</p>

<p>She did, and that was how Kara Swisher started using the Internet. (Later, she started a conference and website with a guy named Walt and got a bajillion Twitter followers, so, you know, that&rsquo;s cool. I&rsquo;m glad I could help.)</p>
<img src="https://platform.vox.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/chorus/uploads/chorus_asset/file/7891609/1___Swisher_and_me_in_Kazakhstan.jpg?quality=90&#038;strip=all&#038;crop=0,0,100,100" alt="" title="" data-has-syndication-rights="1" data-caption="The author with Kara Swisher in Kazakhstan in January 1995. They arranged this vacation through the miracle of email&lt;strong&gt;.&lt;/strong&gt; | Gail Albergo" data-portal-copyright="Gail Albergo" />
<p>At the time, just 14 percent of U.S. households had internet access. And among the world population, the figure was truly minuscule &mdash; less than 1 percent. In Russia, where I now lived, not only had the vast majority of people never been on the internet (or even heard of it), the phone lines were often so poor that maintaining a dial-up connection long enough to stay online was a crapshoot.</p>

<p>So, in the fall of 1995, when photographer Gary Matoso told me he wanted to do a real-time web travelogue across Russia, posting updates over the 5,000-plus miles from Vladivostok to St. Petersburg, I thought he was insane. How could we possibly maintain a website from the hinterlands of Siberia? How would we upload photos? And for that matter, how was Gary going to develop and scan them? Was he planning to bring some kind of portable darkroom?</p>

<p>Standing in my kitchen in St. Petersburg, Gary showed me his secret weapon:&nbsp;A 35mm Nikon camera with a hardware attachment roughly the size of a Buick. He snapped a photo of me, then ejected a little diskette, popped it into a slot in his Apple PowerBook, and when my face magically appeared on the screen I actually shrieked.</p>

<p>Not only had I never seen this technology, I&rsquo;d never even heard of it. Digital cameras weren&rsquo;t widely available in 1995, but Gary had scored an expensive prototype &mdash; the Kodak DCS 420. &nbsp;</p>
<img src="https://platform.vox.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/chorus/uploads/chorus_asset/file/7891611/2___Kodak_DCS_420.jpg?quality=90&#038;strip=all&#038;crop=0,0,100,100" alt="" title="" data-has-syndication-rights="1" data-caption="The Kodak DCS 420, the “Model T” of digital cameras. | Kodak" data-portal-copyright="Kodak" />
<p>Gary had a couple of project partners in San Francisco, Tripp Mikich and Chuck Gathard, who had worked with him to design the website, and would maintain it while we traveled. If all went well, our site, which we dubbed <a href="http://www.f8.com/FP/Russia/">The Russian Chronicles</a> (having decided &ldquo;A Trans-Cyberian Journey&rdquo; was a little too cute), would be one of the first real-time web travelogues.</p>

<p>We set off for Vladivostok with only the barest notion about how the next few months would unfold. I had managed to scrape up contacts in a few cities, mostly Russian friends of friends intrigued at the idea of hosting actual Americans. The rest of the time we&rsquo;d be winging it, asking everyone we met whether they happened to know anyone in the next town over, as we made our way across the country on the Trans-Siberian Railway.</p>
<img src="https://platform.vox.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/chorus/uploads/chorus_asset/file/7891619/3___Gary_and_Lisa.jpeg?quality=90&#038;strip=all&#038;crop=0,0,100,100" alt="" title="" data-has-syndication-rights="1" data-caption="&lt;strong&gt;Gary Matoso and Lisa Dickey, weary travelers in Moscow near the end of their 1995 trip. &lt;/strong&gt; | Lisa Dickey" data-portal-copyright="Lisa Dickey" />
<p>Over 12 weeks, more than 5,000 miles, several screaming fights and approximately 6,000 vodka shots, Gary and I created a portrait, in words and photographs, of the lives of contemporary Russians.</p>

<p>In the course of the trip, Gary unveiled his second secret weapon: He had made an arrangement with Sprint to connect directly, whenever possible, to the company&rsquo;s telecom nodes located across Russia. We also carried phone cords and adaptors, so in the rare city where we could dial up through the fledgling Russian internet service Glasnet, we could connect our laptops to phone jacks. Either way, holding a connection long enough to upload our photos and text was a nerve-racking proposition.</p>

<p>To make the uploads go more quickly, Gary compressed the photos to a ridiculously tiny size. The digital camera took photos that were about 1.5MB each, but Gary shrank them to a minuscule 25KB. Even that tiny, the photos still took hours to send; on one memorable occasion, it took us eight hours to upload just 400KB worth of photos. We would watch nervously as they slooooowly uploaded, terrified that after a few hours the connection might drop and we&rsquo;d have to start over again. Upon finally receiving the photos and text, Tripp and Chuck would then post our updates to the site.</p>
<img src="https://platform.vox.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/chorus/uploads/chorus_asset/file/7891621/4___original_site.jpg?quality=90&#038;strip=all&#038;crop=0,0,100,100" alt="" title="" data-has-syndication-rights="1" data-caption="Homepage for the Russian Chronicles, which is still &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.f8.com/FP/Russia/&quot;&gt;online today&lt;/a&gt;! Note the quaint advisory that “This site is best viewed using Netscape 1.1N or later.”" data-portal-copyright="" />
<p>Most Russians we spoke to outside of Moscow and St. Petersburg had never heard of the internet. In Novosibirsk, I asked one woman whether she minded being identified by her real name in my article. &ldquo;It&rsquo;s not going to be published in Russia, right?&rdquo; she asked.</p>
<figure class="wp-block-pullquote alignleft"><blockquote><p>It truly felt like a once-in-a-lifetime trip — which was why, in 2005, I decided I wanted to do the whole thing again.</p></blockquote></figure>
<p>&ldquo;In theory, it can be read by anyone in the world,&rdquo; I told her. &ldquo;They just have to plug their computer into a box called a &lsquo;modem,&rsquo; then plug that box into a telephone line, then make the computer dial a specific number &#8230; &rdquo;</p>

<p>&ldquo;Stop, stop, stop,&rdquo; she said, waving a hand in the air. &ldquo;Russians will never figure that out. Write what you want.&rdquo;</p>

<p>Against the odds, Gary and I were able to upload all our stories and photos, and keep in email contact with friends and family, over the three months of the 1995 trip. The website was a success (for the times, anyway), garnering thousands of hits and hundreds of comments. It truly felt like a once-in-a-lifetime trip &mdash; which was why, in 2005, I decided I wanted to do the whole thing again.</p>

<p>Gary couldn&rsquo;t join me because of work commitments, so I brought in another photographer, David Hillegas, to make the journey. WashingtonPost.com agreed to publish our updates as a daily blog, and a communications company called I-Linx sponsored us with a few thousand bucks, a satellite phone and a portable RBGAN satellite Internet terminal.</p>
<img src="https://platform.vox.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/chorus/uploads/chorus_asset/file/7891633/5___David_and_Lisa.jpg?quality=90&#038;strip=all&#038;crop=0,0,100,100" alt="" title="" data-has-syndication-rights="1" data-caption="David Hillegas and the author, ready to launch trip No. 2, in 2005. | Lisa Dickey" data-portal-copyright="Lisa Dickey" />
<p>I didn&rsquo;t alert the Russians I had met in 1995 that I was coming back, opting instead to surprise them. Miraculously, through a combination of decade-old hand-scribbled notes, Google, manic perseverance, and stupid luck, I found almost everybody we had done stories about on that first trip. The only exceptions were an elderly pensioner in Chelyabinsk (who was likely no longer living) and a truck driver. Everyone else, we were able to interview and photograph.</p>

<p>By 2005, communications in Russia had leapt forward. David and I were spoiled for choice: We could go online at ubiquitous Internet caf&eacute;s, or by using prepaid internet usage cards, or through services such as Russia Online, which had local dial-up numbers in all but two of the cities we visited. DSL, cable internet and Wi-Fi had also begun popping up, though they were rare outside Moscow and St. Petersburg.</p>

<p>Phone cards made it easy for us to call home, usually for pennies a minute, and of course we had our satellite phone and RBGAN for more remote areas, such as floating out on Lake Baikal or strolling through a field of cows in a Buryat village. Uploading photos still took time, though, especially since we were now sending multi-megabyte pictures instead of the compacted 25KB photos from the first trip.</p>
<img src="https://platform.vox.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/chorus/uploads/chorus_asset/file/7891643/6___RBGAN_buryatia.jpg?quality=90&#038;strip=all&#038;crop=0,0,100,100" alt="" title="" data-has-syndication-rights="1" data-caption="The author uploads photos from a remote village in Buryatia and a boat on Lake Baikal, using the portable RBGAN satellite Internet terminal. | David Hillegas" data-portal-copyright="David Hillegas" /><img src="https://platform.vox.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/chorus/uploads/chorus_asset/file/7891649/7___RBGAN_baikal.jpg?quality=90&#038;strip=all&#038;crop=0,0,100,100" alt="" title="" data-has-syndication-rights="1" data-caption="" data-portal-copyright="David Hillegas" />
<p>In 2015 &mdash; 20 years after the original trip &mdash; I decided to do this once-in-a-lifetime trip a third time. But now, instead of bringing a photographer with me, I would just take photos with my iPhone. I bought a selfie stick, small tripod, and a trio of tiny clip-on lenses for it, and <em>voila! </em>I was ready to go.</p>

<p>And of course, instead of having to dial up or use a satellite communicator or connect to a Sprint node, I could now simply post photos directly to Instagram, Twitter, Facebook &mdash; you name it &mdash; using Wi-Fi or even just cellular connection. I could even FaceTime with loved ones back home for free, which I happily did all across Siberia, and even while floating once again on Lake Baikal.</p>

<p>All the necessary equipment fit snugly into a backpack, with plenty of room left over for my laptop and iPad. Compared to the mountain of gear we&rsquo;d taken on the first two trips &mdash; multiple cameras, the satellite phone, the RBGAN and backups of every conceivable cord, cable and software DVD &mdash; I  was able to travel light.</p>
<img src="https://platform.vox.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/chorus/uploads/chorus_asset/file/7891653/8___RC_95_trip_gear.jpeg?quality=90&#038;strip=all&#038;crop=0,0,100,100" alt="" title="" data-has-syndication-rights="1" data-caption="The mountain of gear for our 1995 trip. | Gary Matoso" data-portal-copyright="Gary Matoso" /><img src="https://platform.vox.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/chorus/uploads/chorus_asset/file/7891655/9___RC15_trip_gear.JPG?quality=90&#038;strip=all&#038;crop=0,0,100,100" alt="" title="" data-has-syndication-rights="1" data-caption="And the molehill of gear for 2015. | Lisa Dickey" data-portal-copyright="Lisa Dickey" />
<p>I&rsquo;m already planning to make the trip again in 2025. And as excited as I&rsquo;ll be to see my Russian friends again, I&rsquo;m equally excited to find out what new technological wonders I&rsquo;ll be using on that trip &hellip;</p>
<div class="youtube-embed"><iframe title="Bears in the Streets, by Lisa Dickey - Book Trailer" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/1GXppUEfPQI?rel=0" allowfullscreen allow="accelerometer *; clipboard-write *; encrypted-media *; gyroscope *; picture-in-picture *; web-share *;"></iframe></div><hr class="wp-block-separator" />
<p><a href="http://lisadickey.com"><em>Lisa Dickey</em></a><em> is the author of  &ldquo;</em><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Bears-Streets-Journeys-Across-Changing/dp/1250092299/ref=tmm_hrd_swatch_0?_encoding=UTF8&amp;qid=1468517157&amp;sr=8-1"><em>Bears in the Streets: Three Journeys Across a Changing Russia</em></a><em>.&rdquo; As an author and ghostwriter, she helped write 17 published nonfiction books, including eight&nbsp;New York Times&nbsp;bestsellers.&nbsp;Reach her </em><a href="https://twitter.com/LisaWritesBooks"><em>@LisaWritesBooks</em></a><em>.</em></p>
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<p><small><em>This article originally appeared on Recode.net.</em></small></p>
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