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	<title type="text">Marian Bull | Vox</title>
	<subtitle type="text">Our world has too much noise and too little context. Vox helps you understand what matters.</subtitle>

	<updated>2021-08-25T13:55:50+00:00</updated>

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		<entry>
			
			<author>
				<name>Marian Bull</name>
			</author>
			
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[The complicated reality of doing what you love]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.vox.com/the-highlight/22620178/hobby-job-leisure-labor" />
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			<updated>2021-08-25T09:55:50-04:00</updated>
			<published>2021-08-25T08:00:00-04:00</published>
			<category scheme="https://www.vox.com" term="Money" /><category scheme="https://www.vox.com" term="The Highlight" />
							<summary type="html"><![CDATA[Part of the Leisure Issue of The Highlight, our home for ambitious stories that explain our world. I didn&#8217;t love my old therapist, but she did give me one crucial piece of advice: Get a hobby. I was writing about food for work, so cooking didn&#8217;t really count as a hobby anymore &#8212; I&#8217;d already [&#8230;]]]></summary>
			
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<p>Part of the <a href="https://www.vox.com/e/22392894">Leisure Issue</a> of <a href="https://www.vox.com/the-highlight">The Highlight</a>, our home for ambitious stories that explain our world.</p>
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<p>I didn&rsquo;t love my old therapist, but she did give me one crucial piece of advice: Get a hobby. I was writing about food for work, so cooking didn&rsquo;t really count as a hobby anymore &mdash; I&rsquo;d already monetized that one &mdash; nor did reading, nor socializing, especially since all of my friends worked in my industry. I needed something in my life that existed apart from all that. I was stressed and, of course, also on my phone too much (and still am).</p>

<p><em>Maybe something you can do with your hands.</em> The suggestion felt like an escape hatch: Maybe a hobby could free me from toil. Cooking had once been the thing I did to relax when I got home from work, the thing I was curious about, the thing that distracted my brain from its standard litany of complaints. Puttering in the kitchen had once been a release, but now it was part of my professional life. It needed a replacement. A few months later, I dutifully signed up for a ceramics class at a studio nearish my Brooklyn apartment.</p>

<p>This was March 2016. One of my roommates was an artist who had taken a class at that same studio, and I always envied the little pots she made. One of them was shaped like the face of a woman, with a ponytail for a handle. She gave it to me, and I put a small succulent in it that would soon die. I hoped that taking a class could make me more like her, or at the very least, happier &mdash; and if not that, well, maybe I&rsquo;d make myself a bowl to put pasta in.</p>

<p>Learning to make ceramics on the wheel &mdash; this is what you picture when you think of that scene from <em>Ghost </em>&mdash; feels initially impossible, pointless, tantrum-inducing. In class, our teacher showed us how to take a blob of clay and slam it onto the machine&rsquo;s surface, strong-arm it into symmetry as the wheel whirred around, dig a hole in its center with our fingers, make the hole wider, and then raise up the walls that would make it a vessel. Doing it on my own was another thing entirely: a reminder of the unkind presence of physics, an asymmetrical lump thwapping around like an off-balance tornado, just some really ugly shit that would occasionally collapse in on itself.</p>

<p>This is par for the course. Most of us suck at first. The stuff you made in second-grade art class was objectively better. Clay shrinks when fired in a kiln, so the first mugs I made that weren&rsquo;t ugly came out more like handled thimbles. Glazing each piece &mdash; decorating it with the often-colorful vitrified coating that makes it water-tight and food-safe, and glossy or matte &mdash; was its own messy challenge. My goal became not to make art or even craft, so much as to make things I didn&rsquo;t hate. Of course, failing at something new doesn&rsquo;t feel good; it feels like banging your head against a wall in front of an invisible audience of your own making. Turning off the desire to excel once you leave work is often impossible, if not difficult.</p>

<p>That said, the pace of my failure was different at the studio. Making ceramics requires patience and is an exercise in delayed gratification (or dissatisfaction). There are so many ways to fuck something up, so many stages to the process, and entering that cycle of hope, expectation, and either failure and trying again or ecstatic satisfaction added a new dimension to the rhythms of my life.</p>
<figure class="wp-block-pullquote alignleft"><blockquote><p>Entering that cycle of hope, expectation, and failure and trying again added a new dimension to the rhythms of my life</p></blockquote></figure>
<p>Through this mild and harmless struggle, I acquired a hobby. &ldquo;How agitated I am when I am in the garden, and how happy I am to be so agitated,&rdquo; Jamaica Kincaid writes in <em>My Garden (Book).</em> &ldquo;Nothing works just the way I thought it would, nothing looks just the way I had imagined it, and when sometimes it does look like what I had imagined (and this, thank God, is rare) I am startled that my imagination is so ordinary.&rdquo;</p>

<p>Powerlessness, for an amateur, can be its own draw. At the studio, I started as a lazy learner, but in a few months became obsessed, signing up for more classes when my session ended. My classes netted out to about $40 a week, plus materials and the cost of firing. I was spending maybe $200 a month, which required an increased vigilance in my other spending but also meant I had something to care about. I had a place to go in my free time that was not my office, or my apartment, or a friend&rsquo;s apartment, or a restaurant, or a bar. I had something to be curious about, and my goals were unrelated to exterior forces: a boss, a job, a market, a reader. Unlike with writing, my progress was quantifiable: Now I can make a vase this tall. Now I have made a planter. Now my handles are beautiful. Now I have made two things that more or less look like a pair.</p>

<p>I also relished having something to do that didn&rsquo;t involve a screen and therefore felt far from the style of work to which I was most accustomed. Hands covered in clay cannot swipe very well. Hobbies have always been defined by their tenuous relationship to work: After industrialization bifurcated life into the realms of work and leisure, hobbies appeared as something &ldquo;productive&rdquo; for workers to do with their newly minted chunks of free time.</p>

<p>&ldquo;Leisure came to represent freedom because it took place in time separate from work, and time in an industrial world could be used for either work or leisure,&rdquo; writes Steven Gelber in his book <em>Hobbies: Leisure and the Culture of Work in America</em>. &ldquo;For this reason, industrial capitalism sharpened the West&rsquo;s ambivalent feelings about leisure.&rdquo; Leisure does not exist without work and is therefore defined by it.</p>

<p>Even as hobbies gained popularity among the 19th-century middle class, they mimicked the capitalist attitudes of the workplaces from which they were meant to provide relief. &ldquo;Since the hobby was done at home in free time, it was under the complete control of the hobbyist. It was, in other words, a re-embracing of preindustrial labor, a recreation of the world of the yeoman, artisan, and independent merchant,&rdquo; Gelber writes. &ldquo;Hobbies were a Trojan horse that brought the ideology of the factory and office into the parlor.&rdquo;</p>

<p>The capitalist value of a &ldquo;work ethic&rdquo; has always been present in the world of the hobbyist. We love hobbies because they are something to do that isn&rsquo;t work, something that we choose to do. But they still so often require toil; we are still proud of ourselves when we perform our hobbies efficiently, competently. Pursuit of mastery is implied, if not always present. For me, few things match the thrill of pulling something beautiful out of the kiln. It always feels like a surprise I have magically given myself.</p>

<p>Once I had made a few things that I didn&rsquo;t hate &mdash; and because I have a smartphone and a need for validation &mdash; I began posting photos of my work on Instagram. I loved making mugs, loved their practicality and the way they fit into a home. A mug can look like anything. I had newfound opinions on what mine should look like, and that felt good. By the winter, people were asking to buy them. I was freelancing at the time, and my studio cost about $200 a month, plus more for materials. If I could regularly sell a few mugs, I&rsquo;d break even. The baseline price for these things, according to a brief survey of other potters, was around $40 &mdash; I started selling mine for $35 or $40, depending on size.</p>

<p>From the beginning I felt like I was doing everything wrong. Like maybe I should wait until I got a little better, or until I could make a nice shiny website, or until I had, I don&rsquo;t know, SKUs. But it felt irresponsible to turn down a few people who would help cover my expenses and who wanted my work in their hands. Once you start making things, you have to put them somewhere. You begin to understand why people collect stamps.</p>

<p>Certain hobbies are difficult to monetize &mdash; say, bird-watching. Coin collecting, unless you sell it all. Gardening. Many things can only be monetized by becoming a teacher, or maybe now an influencer. Once demand appeared, selling felt like an inevitability. I wanted to keep making things but didn&rsquo;t have space to keep it all; people love mugs; selling something feels like a pat on the head followed by a treat. (To be clear, the treat is money.)</p>

<p>People began commissioning mugs, and they&rsquo;d tell me what color they wanted, send me a photo of something I&rsquo;d made and ask for something similar. It was slapdash but it worked, and it covered my expenses. I was having fun and only mildly stressed by the process, always behind schedule. I look back now at some of the things that people paid for and feel a bit embarrassed, but I&rsquo;m always wishing my work were a little uglier, so maybe I should be proud.</p>
<figure class="wp-block-pullquote alignleft"><blockquote><p>Once demand appeared, selling felt like an inevitability</p></blockquote></figure>
<p>Somewhere along the line I made a website and started selling things more formally, claiming the revenue on my taxes, finding a person with a real camera to take photos of my work. I&rsquo;d leave my day job at a magazine and go to the studio, often until 1 or 2 in the morning. It made me late for work, but I didn&rsquo;t care; I ended up getting laid off with one foot out the door, and was given the gift of time &mdash; more daytime hours, at least &mdash; to spend at the studio. I had lost my hobby and gained a revenue stream.</p>

<p>My ceramic work, now, is caught up in the question of selling. Mugs sell, so I make more of them. I take a sick pleasure in the exhausting production line of throwing, trimming, attaching handles, smoothing everything down, painting, glazing, firing, staring at rows of cups lined up like synchronized swimmers, ready to jump. It&rsquo;s the same sick pleasure I get in staying up until 2 am working on a jigsaw puzzle: maniacally focused on my goal at the expense of my posture. Untangling the question of what I want to make from what will sell feels like crawling out of a very deep well.</p>

<p>The swiftness with which modern craftspeople can and do monetize their hobbies is, of course, not a surprise. Traditional careers are crumbling, and side hustles are fetishized; Instagram has turned marketing into a basic skill we&rsquo;re all expected to have. It&rsquo;s easier to sell the crap you make in your spare time, and you&rsquo;re more likely to need the money than you might have been a few decades ago, when you could have just foisted it all on your friends. This all risks turning hobbies into even more of an illusion, a mirage of leisure that quickly turns to obligation.</p>

<p>Some people, though, have fought the seduction of commerce and won. RC, an artist who makes work under the name marinatedclouds, began her first sculptural project with the express intention not to sell it. She was burned out from working a full-time job in graphic design, where in order for an idea to succeed, it needed to be marketable. &ldquo;So many interesting concepts got dismissed because they couldn&rsquo;t fit into a business context,&rdquo; she remembers. &ldquo;It became a situation where I started feeling really empty &mdash; I didn&rsquo;t know how to have fun anymore.&rdquo;</p>

<p>She had long toyed with the idea of creating a book about chicken and rice, with 35 different dishes from around the world. But she&rsquo;d never gotten around to it; the work was too similar to her job as a graphic designer. So she decided to turn it into a sculptural project, quitting her job in April 2018 and giving herself the summer to focus on <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Bn1U3VhF0Ye/">ceramic chicken and rice</a>. Once she was done, she just kept making things. Her work is influenced by early 2000s nostalgia and her Taiwanese American upbringing; her pieces look like something made by a child from a different dimension, playful and mind-blowing in one. Pencils are <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CKeQBqcFtrK/">sliced like bananas</a>; crayons <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CR1k2yzDPWQ/">threaten</a> to crawl out of their box. She once made an entire <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B0V_oRGFwxI/">aughts-era desktop computer</a>.</p>

<p>&ldquo;Nurturing ideas was and is something I&rsquo;m still extremely steadfast about,&rdquo; RC says. &ldquo;I want to pursue every idea, whether it lacks concept or not. Sometimes just making crayons is literally what I want. There&rsquo;s no additional background to it, I just like the rainbow.&rdquo; Refusing to sell her work &mdash; something she did for two years, despite enthusiastic interest from people on Instagram &mdash; allowed her to create the world of marinatedclouds without tainting it with outside influence. &ldquo;For me, it&rsquo;s just pursuing any and every idea that I have. That&rsquo;s my form of self-expression.&rdquo;</p>
<div class="wp-block-vox-media-highlight vox-media-highlight">
<p><a href="https://www.vox.com/e/22392894">More from the Leisure Issue </a></p>
<img src="https://platform.vox.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/chorus/uploads/chorus_asset/file/22795192/ezgif.com_gif_maker.gif?quality=90&#038;strip=all&#038;crop=0,0,100,100" alt="" title="" data-has-syndication-rights="1" data-caption="" data-portal-copyright="" /></div>
<p>Quickly, her pieces began to pile up in her one-bedroom apartment. She was tripping over things. She got rid of her living room and turned it into a studio; she has no couch. But last winter, after a financially challenging 2020, she decided to sell some of her older pieces, both to make money and to clear space for new work. She learned that donuts sell really well. &ldquo;That&rsquo;s feedback that I didn&rsquo;t actually need, but it does stay in the back of my head, and that&rsquo;s something I do really want to avoid,&rdquo; she says. She doesn&rsquo;t want to cater to demand &mdash; only her own whims.</p>

<p>This is, for many of us, the dream: unfettered commitment to externalizing our innards without concern for any gaze but our own. Reclaiming one&rsquo;s time, you could say. But it requires nothing short of a battle. &ldquo;Society puts so much pressure on success as in status or monetization,&rdquo; RC says, &ldquo;but success to me now is being true to myself.&rdquo;</p>

<p>I can no longer call ceramics my hobby, and I doubt I ever will. I assume I will sell my work until people stop buying it, both out of necessity and because it does bring me joy to make a silly little thing that someone will incorporate into the tableau of their home. The struggle, for me, is between what I want to make and what I assume people will buy; the struggle of wishing I could log off forever but knowing that Instagram is the most direct marketing tool I have. The only solution I have come up with is to have a segment of my work I make just for myself, without concern for the market &mdash; or at least with an attempted lack of concern.</p>

<p>But making time for that also means carving out time, both for creation and inspiration, for the rest that is required for my brain to think thoughts. This is something I crave more than a new hobby; this is peace.</p>

<p><em>Marian Bull is an editor, writer, and potter living in Brooklyn.</em></p>
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			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Natural wine, explained]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.vox.com/the-goods/2019/6/10/18650601/natural-wine-sulfites-organic" />
			<id>https://www.vox.com/the-goods/2019/6/10/18650601/natural-wine-sulfites-organic</id>
			<updated>2021-01-13T15:43:21-05:00</updated>
			<published>2019-06-10T07:00:00-04:00</published>
			<category scheme="https://www.vox.com" term="Money" />
							<summary type="html"><![CDATA[When Jenny Lefcourt moved to Paris in the 1990s to study French literature and cinema, she and her friends started drinking a particularly exciting type of wine. This wine tasted &#8220;totally different, and alive, and delicious,&#8221; she remembers. They found it in a couple of bars, and later stumbled into a tasting of it hosted [&#8230;]]]></summary>
			
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<img alt="" data-caption="Natural wine is “funky,” “barnyard-y,” and popular. | Instants/Getty Images" data-portal-copyright="Instants/Getty Images" data-has-syndication-rights="1" src="https://platform.vox.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/chorus/uploads/chorus_asset/file/16316518/GettyImages_160836693.jpg?quality=90&#038;strip=all&#038;crop=0,0,100,100" />
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	Natural wine is “funky,” “barnyard-y,” and popular. | Instants/Getty Images	</figcaption>
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<p>When Jenny Lefcourt moved to Paris in the 1990s to study French literature and cinema, she and her friends started drinking a particularly exciting type of wine. This wine tasted &ldquo;totally different, and alive, and delicious,&rdquo; she remembers. They found it in a couple of bars, and later stumbled into a tasting of it hosted at a neighborhood restaurant. &ldquo;There wasn&rsquo;t really a name for it yet,&rdquo; but it was the stuff that we&rsquo;ll now call natural wine, and she began importing it in 2000.</p>

<p>Now natural wine has become a signifier of bourgeois taste in certain social circles and on certain menus across the United States. It has become a source of indie social capital, with wine labels that are as feverishly followed and obsessed over as album covers in the &rsquo;80s. But what makes a wine &ldquo;natural&rdquo; isn&rsquo;t always clear to consumers who are more familiar with the under-$10 section at Trader Joe&rsquo;s. And it&rsquo;s become the subject of heated debate in the wine world, with natural wine purists arguing for its virtue and thrilling taste, and traditionalists criticizing the perceived flaws and even its idealism.</p>

<p>But while natural wine is recently trendy, it is not new: People have been making fermented grape juice without additives <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/science/2017/aug/30/traces-of-6000-year-old-wine-discovered-in-sicilian-cave">for thousands of years</a>. (The history of sulfites complicates this; some people believe that sulfites in one form or another were used to preserve wine as early as the <a href="http://www.academicwino.com/2014/09/history-sulfite-use-wine.html/">eighth century BC</a>.) &ldquo;People think that natural wine is a fad or a new thing, but it&rsquo;s the traditional way to make wine,&rdquo; explains Krista Scruggs, a winemaker and farmer based in Vermont and Texas. &ldquo;It&rsquo;s conventional wine that&rsquo;s actually new.&rdquo; Here&rsquo;s what natural wine is, how we moved away from &mdash; and back to &mdash; it, and where it&rsquo;s heading next.</p>
<h2 class="wp-block-heading">What it is</h2>
<p>Natural wine is more of a concept than a well-defined category with agreed-upon characteristics. In its purest form, it is wine made from unadulterated fermented grape juice and nothing else.</p>
<figure class="wp-block-pullquote alignleft"><blockquote><p>“People think that natural wine is a fad or a new thing, but it’s the traditional way to make wine. It’s conventional wine that’s actually new.” </p></blockquote></figure>
<p>Many people &mdash; winemakers, distributors, writers, sommeliers &mdash; take issue with the term &ldquo;natural wine.&rdquo; Some prefer the phrase &ldquo;low-intervention&rdquo; wine, or &ldquo;naked&rdquo; wine, or &ldquo;raw&rdquo; wine. Scruggs calls her product &ldquo;just fucking fermented juice.&rdquo; But &ldquo;natural wine&rdquo; is the term that is most widely used, and anyone at a natural-inclined wine store, wine bar, or restaurant will know what you mean when you use it.</p>

<p>For the purpose of this article, I am working under the assumption that natural wine is not a <a href="https://twitter.com/RobertMParkerJr/status/418839188809588736">fraud</a>, nor are its supporters delusional, but rather that it&rsquo;s a highly debated and endlessly complicated topic that never ceases to get all manner of people <a href="http://www.grubstreet.com/2018/07/sommeliers-are-obsessed-with-natural-wine-but-is-it-good.html">riled up</a>. Also, the stuff is very often delicious.</p>

<p>Understanding natural wine requires a basic understanding of the (generally complex) winemaking process. In the simplest terms, that process has two parts: growing and picking grapes, and then turning them into wine through fermentation. Natural wine, then, is made from grapes not sprayed with pesticides or herbicides. Natural winemakers handpick their grapes instead of relying on machines to harvest them. When it comes to turning those handpicked grapes into juice, natural winemakers rely on native yeast, the stuff that&rsquo;s whizzing around in the air and will land on grapes if you put them in a vat for long enough, to set off natural fermentation. And unlike most conventional winemakers, they don&rsquo;t use any additives (like fake oak flavor, sugar, acid, egg white, etc.) in the winemaking process.</p>

<p>Occasionally, some natural winemakers will add some sulfites, a preservative and stabilizer that winemakers have been using longer than any other additive. Sulfites ensure that the wine you drink tastes roughly the same as it did when it went into the bottle. Natural winemakers either use no added sulfites or use it in small quantities, while conventional winemakers use up to 10 times as much. They also use it differently: Conventional winemakers add sulfites to grapes to kill off natural yeasts, and then add more throughout the rest of the winemaking process; natural winemakers will add a little bit just before bottling. The purest of the pure &mdash; naturally fermented grape juice with no sulfites &mdash; is often called &ldquo;zero-zero,&rdquo; referring to the lack of added anything.</p>
<figure class="wp-block-pullquote alignleft"><blockquote><p>The presence of sulfites doesn’t necessarily disqualify a bottle from the natural wine category</p></blockquote></figure>
<p>The presence of sulfites doesn&rsquo;t necessarily disqualify a bottle from the natural wine category, though. Small amounts of sulfites &mdash; around 10 to 35 parts per million &mdash; are in natural wine circles generally considered an acceptable amount of preservative to add in the bottling stage. Conventional wine, on the other hand, often uses much higher amounts of the stuff, which some natural wine supporters think &ldquo;deadens&rdquo; the flavor of the finished product. In the US, the maximum amount is 350 parts per million.</p>

<p>Given that natural wine is often described as &ldquo;cloudy,&rdquo; &ldquo;funky,&rdquo; and/or &ldquo;barnyard-y,&rdquo; many people assume that it&rsquo;s always loudly, inherently weird. While natural wine is often unfiltered (that leads to cloudiness) and can veer sharply into funky territory, there&rsquo;s also lots of natural wine that won&rsquo;t feel like an acquired taste if you&rsquo;re used to buying yours at Costco.</p>

<p>&ldquo;There&rsquo;s a misconception that natural wine is one thing &mdash; that it&rsquo;s &lsquo;funky&rsquo; or &lsquo;not clean,&rsquo;&rdquo; Scruggs says. &ldquo;And that&rsquo;s an injustice. Because natural wine can still honor your palate if you&rsquo;ve been drinking wine from the grocery store, but the cool thing is that it&rsquo;s chemical-free, and that&rsquo;s awesome.&rdquo; Consumers shouldn&rsquo;t be afraid to tell sommeliers and wine store owners that they want a natural wine that tastes like two-buck Chuck, she says. As longtime natural wine advocate <a href="https://www.gq.com/story/how-to-drink-natural-wine">Pascaline Lepeltier told GQ,</a> &ldquo;Whatever you like as a more traditional wine drinker, you can find a [natural] alternative everywhere in the world.&rdquo;</p>

<p>And then there&rsquo;s <a href="https://wine.sprudge.com/2018/01/30/a-brief-history-of-glou-glou/">glou-glou</a>, a popular type of natural wine made to be drunk without having to think about it too much. (The French term is onomatopoetic, their version of &ldquo;glug-glug.&rdquo;) While it doesn&rsquo;t taste like two-buck Chuck, it does generally taste like delicious electrified juice: These are lighter red wines, often served chilled, and downed quickly.</p>
<h2 class="wp-block-heading">What it isn’t</h2>
<p>&ldquo;Conventional&rdquo; winemaking &mdash; shorthand for non-natural wine &mdash; is defined by technical intervention. In the vineyard, that intervention comes in the form of pesticides and herbicides. In the cellar, intervention generally comes in the form of lab-grown yeast (to control the fermentation process and regulate flavor), acid (to increase the wine&rsquo;s acidity, which in turn can help the wine age better), and sulfites added at the time of bottling (to preserve flavor). Many winemakers also add sugar, which doesn&rsquo;t make the wine sweet but instead, through turning into alcohol, creates the perception of &ldquo;body.&rdquo; (It&rsquo;s common practice in Burgundy, Lefcourt notes.)</p>

<p>On top of that, there are <a href="https://www.ecfr.gov/cgi-bin/text-idx?c=ecfr&amp;sid=e616cf652c2a16d768ed4c4873ad2cb0&amp;rgn=div8&amp;view=text&amp;node=27:1.0.1.1.19.12.343.7&amp;idno=27">more than 60 approved additives</a> that American winemakers can use to manipulate their wines without listing them on the label. &ldquo;A lot of wine is a grape product, plus all these millions of additives to create a product that is reliably the same every year,&rdquo; Lefcourt, who owns <a href="http://www.jennyandfrancois.com">Jenny &amp; Francois Selections</a>, explains. &ldquo;It&rsquo;s like Coca-Cola.&rdquo; Egg white and isinglass, which is made from fish bladders, are <a href="https://www.awri.com.au/industry_support/winemaking_resources/frequently_asked_questions/fining_agents/">often used to clarify wine</a>, which makes many bottles non-vegan but not labeled as such.</p>
<img src="https://platform.vox.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/chorus/uploads/chorus_asset/file/16316538/GettyImages_97043961.jpg?quality=90&#038;strip=all&#038;crop=0,0,100,100" alt="" title="" data-has-syndication-rights="1" data-caption="Marcel Lapierre, a French producer of Beaujolais “natural” wine. | Kenzo Tribouillard/AFP/Getty Images" data-portal-copyright="Kenzo Tribouillard/AFP/Getty Images" />
<p>Conventional wine, as we know it now, is less than a century old. Technological advances are the most influential factor in this change: Pesticides became widespread after World War II, when soldiers sprayed their sleeping bags with DDT to prevent the spread of diseases; commercial yeast entered the market <a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2999870/">in the mid &rsquo;60s</a>. But wine criticism has also played a small role. Partially to thank is American wine critic Robert Parker, who established a 100-point wine rating system in the 1980s. Parker billed himself as the first wine critic not influenced by industry interests, an objective consumer advocate.</p>

<p>As Parker gained notoriety, his scoring began to significantly affect wine sales, so winemakers began manipulating their product to fit his tastes, which often favored full-bodied, fruity wines. &ldquo;When that started happening,&rdquo; Lefcourt explains, &ldquo;there was a homogenization of what people thought good wine was.&rdquo; (Parker <a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2006/03/22/dining/decanting-robert-parker.html">has denied the existence of the &ldquo;Parkerization&rdquo; phenomenon, and instead attributed these trends to a &ldquo;successful industry.&rdquo;</a>)</p>

<p>That homogenization of taste, Lefcourt says, led winemakers to rely more heavily on additives that would ensure a consistent result every year, regardless of climate or yield. This gets to the core of a large debate between natural wine fanatics and those who think they&rsquo;ve gone off the rails: Is the &ldquo;best&rdquo; wine made with minimal intervention? Or is it made by seasoned, well-informed winemakers looking to achieve a particular result that reflects their land and traditions? <a href="https://punchdrink.com/articles/will-natural-wine-make-it-in-the-mainstream/">This debate</a> likely <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/news/2018/may/15/has-wine-gone-bad-organic-biodynamic-natural-wine">won&rsquo;t</a> <a href="http://www.grubstreet.com/2018/07/sommeliers-are-obsessed-with-natural-wine-but-is-it-good.html">slow</a> <a href="https://punchdrink.com/articles/separating-fad-from-future-in-natural-wine/">down</a> <a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2010/06/16/dining/16pour.html">anytime</a> soon.</p>
<h2 class="wp-block-heading">Where it came from, and where it’s going</h2>
<p>Most people agree that the modern natural wine movement <a href="https://www.eater.com/drinks/2016/5/20/11713332/natural-wine-france-sulfite-organic-eastern-europe">began in rural France</a>, where a handful of low-intervention winemakers who had been toiling (and tilling) in their own organic bubbles found out about each other and began growing a community. &ldquo;These were natural winemakers who were isolated in their appellations [regions], maybe the only ones there working organically in the vines with little to no additives in the cellar,&rdquo; Lefcourt remembers.</p>

<p>One of the first organized, formal natural wine tastings was La Dive Bouteille in 1999, which started with 15 winemakers and around 100 attendees, Lefcourt says. Now, La Dive boasts hundreds of winemakers and thousands of attendees and <a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2015/03/04/dining/in-france-pesticides-get-in-way-of-natural-wines.html">has become</a> a much-anticipated, hype-filled annual event for the natural wine world.</p>
<img src="https://platform.vox.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/chorus/uploads/chorus_asset/file/16316576/GettyImages_1142512618.jpg?quality=90&#038;strip=all&#038;crop=0,0,100,100" alt="" title="" data-has-syndication-rights="1" data-caption="A traditional vineyard. Natural winemaking is nothing new. | Karl-Josef Hildenbrand/picture alliance via Getty Images" data-portal-copyright="Karl-Josef Hildenbrand/picture alliance via Getty Images" />
<p>In the 2000s, natural wine importers like Lefcourt and Louis/Dressner grew and gained traction in the United States. Natural wine &mdash; first from France, then from elsewhere &mdash; grew from a niche interest of those &ldquo;in the know&rdquo; to a burgeoning trend. In the early days, Lefcourt remembers, &ldquo;there was a lot of talking to deaf ears, trying to communicate and build understanding.&rdquo;</p>

<p>Alice Feiring, one of media&rsquo;s first drum beaters for the natural wine movement, wrote her <a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2001/08/26/business/business-for-better-or-worse-winemakers-go-high-tech.html?searchResultPosition=6">first story</a> revealing the mad scientist-like machinations of conventional wine for the Times in 2001; in 2005, she covered the <a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2005/09/25/travel/in-paris-a-bevy-of-wine-bars-go-au-naturel.html?searchResultPosition=8">natural wine bar</a> trend in Paris. Fourteen years later, the trend is in full swing in America, and not just in New York and LA.</p>

<p>As more stateside restaurants began to stock natural wines and media began to cover those restaurants &mdash; and readers began to associate natural wines with the sort of places where hot, trendy people worked and ate and drank &mdash; a different sort of trend grew. Now, a particular type of trendy, well-respected chef is all but expected to be buddies with a handful of natural winemakers. (Fabian von Hauske and Jeremiah Stone, the chefs at three of Manhattan&rsquo;s most trend-setting restaurants, <a href="https://www.gq.com/story/how-to-make-a-great-neighborhood-restaurant">are set to open their own wine shop</a>, with a focus on all things natural, this year.)</p>

<p>In recent years, natural wine&rsquo;s trendiness has expanded outside the reaches of new-era cool-kid Bon App&eacute;tit, whose splashy and informative 2017 natural wine package compared the genre to the Sex Pistols and N.W.A. GQ Style called it &ldquo;<a href="https://www.gq.com/story/pinard-et-filles-larose-paris-missoni-lookbook">the next frontier for hypebeast culture</a>.&rdquo; The comedian Eric Wareheim is <a href="https://www.gq.com/story/eric-wareheim-master-of-none-wine">making natural wine now</a>, and it&rsquo;s actually good. Kourtney Kardhasian&rsquo;s new lifestyle blog, Poosh, published a story on natural wine, whose recommendations were praised by <a href="https://www.bonappetit.com/story/kourtney-kardashian-natural-wine">Bon App&eacute;tit</a>, <a href="https://www.eater.com/2019/4/2/18292415/poosh-kourtney-kardashian-lifestyle-blog-wine-recommendations">Eater</a>, and <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BvzCzHUnEih/">Natural Whine</a>, an inside-baseball natural wine Instagram account run by industry vet Adam Vourvolis that also sells <a href="https://www.vdcwine.com/products/anti-wine-wine-club">in-joke T-shirts</a>. Action Bronson <a href="https://www.facebook.com/munchies/videos/vb.656832881044884/1234290753299091/?type=2&amp;theater">hosted a Facebook video</a> with natural wine GOAT Frank Cornelissen. (One commenter replied, &ldquo;Four Loko is better.&rdquo;)</p>
<figure class="wp-block-pullquote alignleft"><blockquote><p>“Wineries are the biggest polluter in France”</p></blockquote></figure>
<p>As the issue of climate change becomes more dire every day, natural winemaking gains more traction as a way to protect the earth. &ldquo;Wineries are the biggest polluter in France,&rdquo; Lefcourt explains. Scruggs notes that natural winemaking with a focus on native grape varietals &mdash; as opposed to growing varietals to respond to market trends &mdash; can make those vines more resistant to the effects of climate change.</p>

<p>Natural wine begins with organically or biodynamically farmed grapes, which are grown without pesticides, herbicides, or other chemicals. (Biodynamic farming is a holistic, chemical-free practice that takes into account the ecosystem of the farm, as well as lunar cycles.) Organic and <a href="https://www.demeter-usa.org/downloads/Demeter-Farm-Standard.pdf">biodynamic certifications</a> exist, but they are expensive; many small vineyards that adhere to these practices don&rsquo;t shell out for the label. &nbsp;</p>

<p>Complicating things further is the fact that many winemakers who <em>do</em> pay for organic certification will then use additives &mdash; high amounts of sulfur, yeast, acid, etc. &mdash; when making their wine. This brings us to one of the biggest obstacles standing between consumers and the experience of drinking natural, low-intervention, organically farmed wine: It can, at face value, be hard to identify.</p>
<h2 class="wp-block-heading">One last thing: What about hangovers?</h2>
<p>You&rsquo;ll often hear that natural wine causes fewer <a href="https://www.vox.com/the-goods/2018/11/27/18112576/hangover-cures-science-shaughnessy-bishop-stall">hangovers</a>. A lot of people (Goop included) think this is true, that the sulfites in conventional wine can exacerbate wine&rsquo;s morning-after effects. A lot of people think it&rsquo;s bullshit.</p>

<p>&ldquo;I think not drinking water [leads to] hangovers,&rdquo; Scruggs says. &ldquo;I don&rsquo;t think it&rsquo;s related to sulfur because it&rsquo;s a naturally occurring byproduct already. Yes, there are producers pushing an extreme amount of it &mdash; but usually it&rsquo;s bulk wine and it&rsquo;s the [other] additives that don&rsquo;t have to be listed.&rdquo; So drink responsibly, and don&rsquo;t be an idiot.</p>

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