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Latest articles by Mayukh Sen

The wild and irresistibly saucy tale of the curry con man
The Highlight

J. Ranji Smile served Indian food and tall tales to a hungry American public. Was he the first “celebrity chef” or a crook? The truth is complicated.

By Mayukh Sen
In the 1970s, “Mamma Desta” turned Ethiopian food into an American fascination. So why did fame elude her?
The Highlight

Amid changing tastes and a growing population from Ethiopia and Eritrea, chef Desta Bairu’s DC restaurant won national attention. The woman in the kitchen, not so much.

By Mayukh Sen